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1958 88 Series II - taking the previous owner(s) out

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  • S3ute
    replied
    Hello from Brisbane.

    Just a personal concern here.

    I notice that your jack stands are sitting on bricks. That would make me very nervous as they are prone to collapsing. I certainly wouldn’t be prepared to get underneath it.

    Here we use solid wood blocks which are much more stable.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    Last edited by S3ute; 03-07-2021, 02:03 PM.

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  • 8745jack
    replied
    Originally posted by Hightower View Post
    Where did you get your marston mats? Or are they aluminum? Looks handy. And original.
    Got them at my local scrap yard, where I tend to bring more things home than I take to dump. They're the original steel ones. I always wanted some.

    So my powder coating place was in a desperate need of help (one guy didnt show up and was just unreliable) so I asked if I can help..
    Last few days I got a bunch of my stuff blasted and ready for powder... Owner is super happy and so am I. Bulkhead is almost blasted all the way. Rear leaf springs are about 1/2 done, they take FOREVER
    It's a very strange feeling walking into a 30ft deep oven at 425F for a few seconds







    and YES you can blast the seat box.... I was wrong. I took it home to straighten it out


    I started to install the winch


    and installed some hangers, used SuperLube on the poly bushings. I need to plate all the hardware



    Last edited by 8745jack; 03-07-2021, 12:44 PM.

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  • Hightower
    replied
    Where did you get your marston mats? Or are they aluminum? Looks handy. And original.

    Leave a comment:


  • 8745jack
    replied
    small update

    This weekend we went to Carson City Nv to pick up some furniture, on the way there I saw a CR ad
    ended up picking up a very nice seat box. .... just as I was close to having all the paint removed from my original one



    Yesterday; I removed the rear axle and springs.


    Today; I decided to wirewheel the undercoating from the rear frame


    It didnt taste like asbestos


    I also removed one of the bushings yesterday


    Leave a comment:


  • 8745jack
    replied
    Not a big update but I feel like I reached a milestone - well maybe 1/4 mile. Bumper is on and bolted up!

    passenger side before paint and drilled out extra hole


    driver side front frame - I started by drilling out a hole


    eventually was able to get in there with a Sawzall


    tight space and I cleaned up most of it, ended up looking like the passenger side. I added the same spacers and welded everything up



    painted and ready for a bumper - (I drenched the inside with lots of paint)


    bolted up using grade 8 hardware



    My poly bushings came in from UK. around a $100 shipped for the whole kit with some extra gaskets I ordered
    Last edited by 8745jack; 02-26-2021, 09:13 AM.

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  • loose gravel
    replied
    My experience with this style was in the 70's and 80's I had 2. My first trip they were inside, then they HAD to be mounted on the rear door of my 88 on those cool Cepek mounts. When going to the Black Rock desert I would fill them in Gerlach and hit the outback. I learned that the jostleing would cause them to leak out around the cap. So I used a long screwdriver to tighten the cap. That slowed the leak. Also they would leak when full in the hot sun. These were brand new cans, with what? 3/16" rubber gaskets.
    Sure I kept them and used them since nothing else was available back then.

    Leave a comment:


  • 8745jack
    replied
    I had a few of these over the years but I don’t remember having issues with them. They sell like hot cakes when redone. If I don’t like them for whatever reason I’ll just flip them. I went down the rabbit hole of Jerrycans the other night... LET ME TELL YOU
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerrycan

    The cap on USA version is designed to be interchangeable with 50gal drum caps.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bioheat
    replied
    Originally posted by loose gravel View Post
    Some nice work, but unless you don't put fuel in them you just threw away $10. I had those type, couldn't get them to not leak even with a prybar on the cap. NATO style is the only way to go for fuel storage. Sorry I'm usually not so negative but I feel strongly on this.
    You know, my dad used this type for years, he always made gaskets out of old inner tubes, they never leaked.

    Leave a comment:


  • loose gravel
    replied
    Some nice work, but unless you don't put fuel in them you just threw away $10. I had those type, couldn't get them to not leak even with a prybar on the cap. NATO style is the only way to go for fuel storage. Sorry I'm usually not so negative but I feel strongly on this.

    Leave a comment:


  • 8745jack
    replied
    disassembled and started cleaning rear axle.

    ORIGINAL rust proofing


    pressure washed


    what year would this be from?


    I frequent the local scrap yard, few days ago I found some "blitz" gas cans. $5 each, no rust inside. They'll go nicely with a NATO tank I already own

    Leave a comment:


  • 8745jack
    replied
    Originally posted by Contractor View Post
    Nice work.

    I laughed out loud at the “face of horror”!
    Originally posted by loose gravel View Post
    Steven King's "Face of Horror" book cover!
    It always lurks!


    I cutout the rest of the rust and did some cleaning inside the passenger frame


    started to patch it up


    spacer - wasn't the best fit but no one will see it until it rusts 50 years from now


    then I ran out of gas to weld (bottom right is where you can see I was out) ... GF called me a "loser"
    time to refill my bottle

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  • loose gravel
    replied
    Steven King's "Face of Horror" book cover!

    Leave a comment:


  • Contractor
    replied
    Nice work.

    I laughed out loud at the “face of horror”!

    Leave a comment:


  • 8745jack
    replied
    Originally posted by series guy View Post
    I would use shorter bolts top and bottom on the hitch. Nice score on the parts. For the vent controls I painted mine with hammerite silver instead of taking them apart. I think they were sheradized like so many other Rover parts. Galvanizing may be a bit coarse for them.
    learned something, no idea that's what it was called. Thanks

    I got my replacement bumper yesterday so I decided to start working on front frame. It's no wonder this part rusts out as there is no place for the dirt to go.

    before


    I cut out the front end plate - it was packed with dirt. The hole should just be at the bottom not top (in my opinion)
    Im going to cut out the inner structure and replace it with some steel square tubing. (I know stock was round but it's what I got)
    driver


    passenger

    face of horror


    cleaned up most of the coating PO loved to use.


    sprayed a light coat of paint and test fitted the bumper. Going to rain here today/tomorrow so thats it for next few days
    Last edited by 8745jack; 02-15-2021, 06:02 AM.

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  • series guy
    replied
    I would use shorter bolts top and bottom on the hitch. Nice score on the parts. For the vent controls I painted mine with hammerite silver instead of taking them apart. I think they were sheradized like so many other Rover parts. Galvanizing may be a bit coarse for them.

    Leave a comment:

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