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1965 88" IIa

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  • #16
    Originally posted by loose gravel View Post
    I usually twist em till they break.
    Hello from Brisbane.

    Me too.

    Unfortunately all too often when I didn’t want to.




    • #17
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ID:	196521 Click image for larger version

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ID:	196522 Chassis stripped to axles. Spent an afternoon cleaning out the internals as best as I could using air, water, tubing. At least 3 hornet nests, a mouse nest, and hundreds of maple tree seeds flushed out as well as a fair amount of sand, dirt, rust.

      As I’m waiting for the internals to completely dry before painting with Eastwood’s internal frame coating, I’m continuing to strip the last bit of galvanized bits from panels.

      If I remove the galvanized tub supports can I find the rivets to reattach? (photo with arrows to rivets on ends)
      Are these known as blind rivets? I’d like to not have to remove the tub floor or aluminum tub supports. Just hoping to remove the three galvanized supports and have them stripped and regalvanized when I do the rest.

      I still need to strip the storage compartment attached to the seat box (attached with about a hundred hammer rivets) and the hood supports and spare wheel mount then I can take all the parts to the galvanized. I’m planning on painting and not galvanizing the chassis.


      • #18
        Yes you can find rivets to reattach the tub supports I Used Flat head 3/16 x11/16 countersunk rivets and a microstop cage to get the proper countersink angle on the floor, that way the rivets sit flush with the floor. They get bucked in from underneath.
        These are not Blind or pop rivets they take a bit of work to install but the learning curve is pretty quick
        I have the rivets and the microstop cage which I could drop off to you on my next trip down
        which will hopefully be Nov 13
        shoot me a PM

        1964 Series IIa In progress
        1968 S IIa (Sold)
        1972 S III (Sold)
        1996 Discovery SE-7 (Sold)
        1985 J**p CJ-7 (For Sale)