Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

[64osby]

I spent over an hour trying to find a proper rebuild kit. No such luck. I can a buy a new mechanical pump for about $40 to $50.

Based on Series advice and other forum(s) input about eliminating vapor lock and hard starts, I've decided to try an electric pump.

Question - There will be two tanks with a switching valve. I know from what I've read it is best to place electric pumps close to the tank. Would placing it after the valve be acceptable or should I look at placing one pump for each tank before the valve?

[siiirhd88]

There are a couple of different Series mechanical fuel pumps, and the one on the later trucks does not have a sediment bowl. I run electric fuel pumps on our trucks, one per tank, but I think one pump mounted close to the switchover valve would work OK. Note that an electric pump could continue to pump fuel after an accident. I had this issue after I rolled the SIII 88, but I was able to shut off power. There are safety switches available that will shut off the power on low engine oil pressure, if the engine stops in the accident.

With two tanks the Pollak valve is a good choice, with the capability to swap fuel pumps, fuel gauges, and return lines if fitted, but plumbing and wiring can get a little complicated.

Bob

[64osby]

... Note that an electric pump could continue to pump fuel after an accident. I had this issue after I rolled the SIII 88, but I was able to shut off power. There are safety switches available that will shut off the power on low engine oil pressure, if the engine stops in the accident.

With two tanks the Pollak valve is a good choice, with the capability to swap fuel pumps, fuel gauges, and return lines if fitted, but plumbing and wiring can get a little complicated.

Bob

The shut off/ safety switch is a great suggestion. Thank you.

[loose gravel]

If you want to go with the Pollak set up I have a write up in my blog; https://poppageno.blogspot.com/2015/...and-rover.html

[siiirhd88]

The shut off/ safety switch is a great suggestion. Thank you.

The switch is an "ON - ON" switch with a two sets of contacts, one which is closed when oil pressure is 'low' and the other set closed when oil pressure is 'high'. There are three wires on the switch, one out to the fuel pump, one incoming power from the ignition on circuit, and the other incoming power from the start circuit. When oil pressure is low, the out to the fuel pump is connected to the start circuit. Only when the engine is cranking the fuel pump has power. When the engine starts the oil pressure rises swapping the switch contacts and the ignition on power now supplies the fuel pump. If the engine stops the oil pressure drops and the ignition on contact opens stopping the fuel pump.

This could be an issue if you have low oil pressure at idle, or if it takes a while for oil pressure to rise such as very cold weather.

You can find switches with different setpoints. This one is from VDO set at 4 psig:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-230604.

I use a relay in the fuel pump power circuit, and use the safety switch wire for relay switching, not the actual power in and out to the fuel pump.

Bob

[64osby]

Found what thought would be a great deal on some used tires on Marketplace.





Set of five Cooper's listing stated only 2,000 miles. Size 235/85/16.

Contacted the guy, confirmed tires and time. Drove 160 miles one way.

I get there and he has "the" tires pulled and lined up at the door. The tires were not even close to what was listed. He had 225/75/16 Firestone's that were six to eight years old.

He stated his wife must have posted the wrong pictures. What an asshat!

Wasted a day and a lot of gas.

[64osby]

Also have to figure out why screen shots post as small files and not large like pictures.

[64osby]

I decided to use a manual tank switch. Moeller boat switch, simple and no electricity involved for reliability.

Used the RH hand brake blank plate for a mounting location. Added two 1/2" hdpe spacers so the switch handle doesn't stick out to far.

Still a lot of plumbing to do.

[64osby]

Yesterday I received a package from AB. One of the items contained within was vent seals.



These are the seals that fit in/on the vent not on the bulkhead. Another mistake in ordering on my behalf, maybe.

I installed them today after the turkey was put in the roaster. Time will tell if they work. I debate buying some cheap bulb to go on the bulkhead or buying the bulkhead seals.

[S3ute]

Hello from Brisbane.

If it’s any consolation going by the Country of Origin that Britpart package might contain some cheap British product rather than their now more familiar cheap Chinese products. On the other hand it might be a good British product - 50:50 chance I suppose.

Cheers,

Neil

[64osby]

I did see the origin.

The seals did fit the vent flaps nicely. Double stick tape, an 1/8" of foam with about 3/16" of rubber on top outer. I installed them and cranked the flaps tight. Will let them set for several days before opening them up.

[S3ute]

Hello again.

I have a couple of packets of the vent seals that are fixed to the bulkhead rather than the movable flaps. One is Britpart and the other of unknown branding other than the serial number and C of O noted as the UK.

Haven’t got around to fitting anything yet. The originals aren’t in particularly bad shape despite being nearly 50 years old. I had heard that getting the flaps to close after the new seals have been fitted can be an exercise requiring a fair bit of patience - another reason why they are still there unopened I suppose.

Cheers,

Neil

[64osby]

My old seals were hard and crusty. Some areas had fallen off leaving 3" gaps. Most other areas were cracked. Almost anything would be better.

The tub to cap seals were the same, hard and crusty with missing areas. Ordered new but only received one, the other is on backorder. Placing the cap on the tub is going to take longer than expected.

[64osby]

I had a couple electric fuel pumps delivered for testing and possibly more. Plumbed in the pump, switch and tanks.

To quote Dr. Frankenstein (Gene Wilder) "It's Alive".

Fired right up. Happened so fast I couldn't believe it.

Further inspection revealed the dynamo was not providing any charge. My cheap meter showed 1 volt, no continuity. Pulled it.


Brushes were stuck. Cleaned them up and they were moving as they're supposed to. It now tests at just over 6 ohms which is close to spec. Reinstalled and still getting 1 volt.

Decided to look at the regulator. Pushed in the D side contact and it stuck and things went south. Looks like I let the magic smoke out of the ammeter. I can buy pass the meter and it runs, still has the amp light on. On to more testing and troubleshooting.

I thought I pretty smart when I picked up two dynamos at a car show last year. Had just put them in storage. Pulled one out to see if I could make it work. Tried to put it in. Pulled it back out as it would not fit. Never realized that it was a different size until they were placed side by side.


On to more trouble shooting and to see if the ammeter is repairable or needs to be replaced.

Progress.

[64osby]

Removed the ammeter with the thought that there is not much to loose by opening it up.



Sure enough I had let the magic smoke out. Did a little digging and found a found wire that was similar in gauge. Disassembled the gauge, removed the toasted wire and installed a replica.


Mangled the needle and was able to straighten it up pretty good. Had fun putting it all back together. It is not quite pointing at zero and will work on adjusting it a little more.

Pulled the dynamo and cleaned it up a little more. Reinstalled it, even plugged it in this time ( might be why there was no current). Fired up the motor and... ...the dynamo and the ammeter are working. Who knows for how long or how accurate.



Fun stuff and progress!

Next up try and fix the swivel seal, again.