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Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

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  • series guy
    replied
    Much easier to buy the parking brake pivot pin/nut/washer than to cut off the bracket and drill the frame.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    loose gravel - Thanks for that!

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  • loose gravel
    replied
    The ice cream cone things on the rear crossmember are the tailgate hinge pivots.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    The other differences I see are
    1- the fuel line bracket to the frame won't match up. Pretty easy to solve imo. Pic above.

    2- On the rear cross member there are two of these. Not sure of their purpose.
    Click image for larger version

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  • 64osby
    replied
    I have discovered some subtle differences between my old frame and my newer one.

    One effects the lower mount of the E brake.

    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    The bracket I'm holding in pick one bolts through the frame in pic two with two bolts. Pic three shows the lower actuator.

    Apparently this would have a threaded rod that would mount through the bracket on my newer frame.

    Options as I see it are
    1- Cut off the existing frame bracket and drill two holes.
    2- Acquire the correct pivot piece.
    3- Try to source a bolt/ bushing that could fill the need

    Any input from greater minds than mine?

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Looking a little better after some degreaser and a power wash.

    Click image for larger version

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Progress! With big thanks to my son and his friends for pushing and pulling.

    Click image for larger version

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Blukhead is out, probably the first time in 61 years.

    Click image for larger version

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    Next up engine/ trans transplant. Woo Hoo!

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Originally posted by series guy View Post
    That sounds logical. Hope you never need to find out if it worked.
    If all goes as planned it will be my son's task, in about 30 years!

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  • series guy
    replied
    That sounds logical. Hope you never need to find out if it worked.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    While spending 1.5 hours getting the 4 bolts to thread into the frame for the steering relay securing flange, I thought about some recent posts about sealing the floor panels with plumbers putty or rope caulk.

    I decided to use a little rope putty when installing the steering relay. Maybe the next time it has to be removed it won't be such a pita to get out. Click image for larger version

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    Great at to see my Rover is being environmentally friendly even while being rebuilt. A safe harbor for mud wasps.

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  • series guy
    replied
    It is possible but not much fun. I would pull the bulkhead, pull the engine and trans and then reinstall the bulkhead.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Is it possible to pull the engine and transmission as one unit?

    Would like to pull it from the old frame while leaving the bulkhead in place. Then do the bulkhead repairs before moving it over to the newer frame.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Originally posted by series guy View Post
    Never say that until the job is complete.
    The collar did not just drop on! Imagine that. Tried to convince it to go on with no luck. Did some work on my better half's vehicle. Came back after everything had cooled down and was able to motivate it into position. Fun stuff.

    Finished up getting the fourth leg back together after dinner on Saturday.

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    Everything is still loose on until it gets a little weight on it.

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