Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

[64osby]

50 wulf I didn't cut the hole in the wing for the mud shield. I cut it to adjust the master clutch cylinder with out taking the wing off. Had many issues when I bought this 30 years ago.

The link to clip on hex nuts didn't open for me, but I believe you're linking are what I call spring nuts. Bought a pack of 1/4x20 for installing the floor panels. Didn't think to use them for the mud shield.

Great idea.

[64osby]

Will not be looking at anything for a week or so related to the noise the the video.

Today our outside temperature went up by 100%,. It went from 2 to 4 degrees. Tomorrow it is supposed to get up to 8 degrees. They say next weekend will be close to 40. That might be a better time to start looking at what is going on.

Merry Christmas to all!

[64osby]

Made another video of the drive train noise. It think I'll be checking the rear prop shaft bolts and the drive flange nut tension at the same time.

https://youtu.be/aqNAZDu4LJY

[siiirhd88]

You do have the driveshaft yokes aligned?

[64osby]

You do have the driveshaft yokes aligned?

I looked today and only have a readable mark on the front. I did change the alignment so both yolks were aligned. Is there another way ?

Removed the spline cover that I had put on the rear shaft, a left over from a damaged front cover. When running I could see it wobble out of shape.

Rotated the rear diff input 180 degrees while I was there.

Tested again and did not hear the clunk noise, at least at the rpms I was running.

Looked up front a the input flange for the front diff was spitting out gear oil everywhere, good for rust protection.

Pretty sure I have another new seal. Maybe second time will be a charm.

[64osby]

Just a minor issue with my seal

I think that was a blue bag part. Had an old stock Karson's and installed it. Hoping it stays together.

I probably damaged the seal when it was installed.

[64osby]

"Winter is here."

Big slow down in working on the project for three reasons. Cold/ snow being the first. Started a new job so not as much free time as previous. Third is I'm back Mentoring our local HS FRC Robotics team.

I have a few issues going on.

I replaced the front diff to prop shaft seal and with a few test runs it is leaking again. In addition the transfer output to the prop shaft is also now leaking. Will have to pull the prop shaft and see if the alignment marks are visible and lined up.

When doing testing the engine fires right up. It will run for about 15 minutes at various rpm and then it will sputter and die I had installed a cheapo electric fuel pump that doesn't have a bypass and there is no return line. My thoughts tell me that the carb is slowly flooding which causes the engine to die.

Solutions would be to install a better fuel pump with an internal bypass, a fuel filter after the pump with a return line or a return line from the carb. Leaning towards a better fuel pump.

New tires have to be installed. My free time is after 5 during the week, Saturday is 9 to 4 with Robotics. Not many tire places open on Sunday in my area.

Almost ready to roll!.

One thing I did do is play around with Plasti dip spray. Years ago I bought a nice set of rubber coated gear box covers for the hump. Most of the rubber had fallen off the foam. Figured I would see if there was an option to make the pieces usable.

This is the outcome.

Not much progress, but still progress!

[series guy]

Just as important as the seal is the surface it rides on. If there is a groove worn by the seal then it is almost guaranteed that the new seal will leak. Sometimes you can seat the seal a bit differently so that it rides in a different area. Replacing the pinion or gearbox flange or installing a speedisleeve should take care of the issue. Also make sure you don’t distort the new seal during installation. Before you take anything apart check for play in the bearings.