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Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Continued small steps on little stuff and clearing out a space for the build side of this

    Today the front panel for the gearbox tunnel cover was repaired. Testing my skills for welding thin metal.

    This pic shows why a repair was needed.
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    ​​​​​​Cut, formed and welded in new sheet steel.
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    Not perfect but will work.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Have be staying busy keeping with the 15 minutes a day plan. Lots of little progress. Two clean and painted axle housings. A cleaned up steering wheel, ground out the cracks and filled with JB Weld, then primed and painted. Replaced the broken screws for the fuel tank sender. Many other little things completed.

    Received the LH tank bracket and parts for resealing the front axle which was leaking like a sieve.

    Have to install a new 50 gallon water heater for swmbo before any other major works starts.

    Still moving forward!

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  • S3ute
    replied
    Originally posted by roverjohn View Post

    I have heard good things about both. Personally, I used the KBS kit as it specifically mentions biodiesel safe in case I ever wanted to run it in my diesel truck. It was a great kit with the cleaner and the sealer.
    Hello from Brisbane.

    I used the three step KBS kit here as well on an older 15 gallon tank. It worked out well and I was quite pleased with the end result.

    KBS Tank Sealer System - All-Inclusive Tank Liner Kit (kbs-coatings.com)

    KBS has some pretty good “how to” advice links in their website.

    This part 1 of 4:

    KBS Coatings - Gas Tank Sealer - Part #1 - YouTube

    One small issue that I had was getting the finishing coats to flow completely around the tanks to get a good coverage - the larger tanks have a couple of baffles that restrict the flow of the sealer. I found it easier to get an assistant on the other end to help rotate the tank - they are fairly heavy and you need to keep it moving.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    Last edited by S3ute; 08-10-2021, 06:44 AM.

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  • limestone69
    replied
    You should check out caswell also.
    i've used it in a couple bike tanks, with good results.

    Leave a comment:


  • roverjohn
    replied
    Originally posted by 64osby View Post

    Sound advice, thanks. This is a replacement tank that was purchased about 15 years ago and still seems to be in good condition. Looking at Eastwood's site they sell a house brand kit and also the POR15 sealer. Any input on either product?
    I have heard good things about both. Personally, I used the KBS kit as it specifically mentions biodiesel safe in case I ever wanted to run it in my diesel truck. It was a great kit with the cleaner and the sealer.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Originally posted by roverjohn View Post

    If you are not planning on it already, I would highly recommend sealing the inside of the tanks (while they are already out) with a sealant like Eastwood or something similar. They are easy to do and one kit will most likely do both your tanks. It will add peace of mind and you won't be pulling the tanks later due to leakage.
    Sound advice, thanks. This is a replacement tank that was purchased about 15 years ago and still seems to be in good condition. Looking at Eastwood's site they sell a house brand kit and also the POR15 sealer. Any input on either product?

    Leave a comment:


  • roverjohn
    replied
    Originally posted by 64osby View Post

    Tank is pretty clean now. Painted and ready to be installed.

    Waiting for aux tank bracket to weld on and the frame paint starts
    If you are not planning on it already, I would highly recommend sealing the inside of the tanks (while they are already out) with a sealant like Eastwood or something similar. They are easy to do and one kit will most likely do both your tanks. It will add peace of mind and you won't be pulling the tanks later due to leakage.

    Leave a comment:


  • Contractor
    replied
    I have ordered a ton of stuff from YRM, shipping was good and most parts were received the same week.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Been staying busy, doing little stuff.

    Also had to replace the RH O2 sensor on my F150. Did the LH about 3 weeks ago. The plug on the RH is almost impossible to get to. It's tucked up by the transmission. Hard to get a hand up there. Took an hour to get it unplugged.

    Also replaced the alt on my wife's Highlander. Only took 4.5 hours.: It's 3 bolts. The new alt needed adjustment just to have the large bolt fit. The lower bolt broke when removing it and was replaced. The adjustment bolt froze and broke when trying to tighten it. Fun stuff

    On the LR the heater unit was taken apart and cleaned up a bit. Removed the last remnants of the wasp nests. It is amazing how much junk builds up in the fins.

    Click image for larger version

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    Also pulled the fuel tank. The sender was frozen, have worked it loose. Still have to test with a meter.

    The tank had gas sitting in it for years. There was a nice layer of varnish built up. Soaked it with denatured alcohol for a couple days and poured that out. Still had some junk and some surface rust on the side walls.

    I rigged up a weed Wacker type thing with some wire and cleaned most of the junk out. Hooked up a shop vac and blew in compressed air, while shining in a light to make sure all the crap was removed. Had a few stray wire ends that were removed with a long screwdriver with a magnet attached.

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    Tank is pretty clean now. Painted and ready to be installed.

    Waiting for aux tank bracket to weld on and the frame paint starts

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  • Colin
    replied
    I like your approach, little bits of work add up to huge wins. It also helps stay consistent. When you complete a section it’s a great feeling being able to move on to the next one.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    More parts cleaned and derusted.

    Click image for larger version

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Saved the spring shackles with a torch and an impact. Fun stuff.

    Have picked most of everything back to the bulkhead, save the engine. It's like an architectural dig.

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    Click image for larger version  Name:	PXL_20210724_004842730.jpg Views:	0 Size:	67.4 KB ID:	194295 The thing in my hand is a rubber blob that was in the lower door pillar. Have found it in three other places around the foot wells. The screwdriver is pointing at another rubber blob. Looks like the drivers foot well had three patch pieces riveted on.

    New foot wells, lower door pillar feet and door pillars are needed. Amongst many other things.

    Have looked at many sources, RN AB, Pangolin and a few others. The one I like is YRM, but shipping might be a killer. Was building a cart and it stated add X more pounds for free shipping, but I don't know if that applies to the US.

    Has anyone ordered from YRM?
    Last edited by 64osby; 07-24-2021, 08:19 PM.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Series - Yes we do understand that. We cut one front spring off. There is a shackle that we would like to save, it's loose on the bolt but won't clear the frame. We will get it at some point. Having a good one also makes it easier to source replacements locally.

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  • series guy
    replied
    You need to keep in mind what is expendable when dismantling your truck. Things you won’t be reusing can be removed much faster with a torch, angle grinder, or sawzall. You have to weigh spending 2 hours saving a $2 bolt vs getting the job done. It helps keep a positive mental attitude when progress is made.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Thanks Rust!

    If we had bid this project we'd be loosing our ars.

    Took almost 3 hours with the two of us to drop the front axle. It's just 6 bolts and two are still stuck in the chassis bushings. Could not get the axle U bolt nuts to move. Very happy to get this done. Click image for larger version

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    Time to figure out the good, bad and the ugly.

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