Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

[64osby]

If you are not planning on it already, I would highly recommend sealing the inside of the tanks (while they are already out) with a sealant like Eastwood or something similar. They are easy to do and one kit will most likely do both your tanks. It will add peace of mind and you won't be pulling the tanks later due to leakage.

Sound advice, thanks. This is a replacement tank that was purchased about 15 years ago and still seems to be in good condition. Looking at Eastwood's site they sell a house brand kit and also the POR15 sealer. Any input on either product?

[roverjohn]

Tank is pretty clean now. Painted and ready to be installed.

Waiting for aux tank bracket to weld on and the frame paint starts

If you are not planning on it already, I would highly recommend sealing the inside of the tanks (while they are already out) with a sealant like Eastwood or something similar. They are easy to do and one kit will most likely do both your tanks. It will add peace of mind and you won't be pulling the tanks later due to leakage.

[Contractor]

I have ordered a ton of stuff from YRM, shipping was good and most parts were received the same week.

[64osby]

Been staying busy, doing little stuff.

Also had to replace the RH O2 sensor on my F150. Did the LH about 3 weeks ago. The plug on the RH is almost impossible to get to. It's tucked up by the transmission. Hard to get a hand up there. Took an hour to get it unplugged.

Also replaced the alt on my wife's Highlander. Only took 4.5 hours.: It's 3 bolts. The new alt needed adjustment just to have the large bolt fit. The lower bolt broke when removing it and was replaced. The adjustment bolt froze and broke when trying to tighten it. Fun stuff

On the LR the heater unit was taken apart and cleaned up a bit. Removed the last remnants of the wasp nests. It is amazing how much junk builds up in the fins.



Also pulled the fuel tank. The sender was frozen, have worked it loose. Still have to test with a meter.

The tank had gas sitting in it for years. There was a nice layer of varnish built up. Soaked it with denatured alcohol for a couple days and poured that out. Still had some junk and some surface rust on the side walls.

I rigged up a weed Wacker type thing with some wire and cleaned most of the junk out. Hooked up a shop vac and blew in compressed air, while shining in a light to make sure all the crap was removed. Had a few stray wire ends that were removed with a long screwdriver with a magnet attached.



Tank is pretty clean now. Painted and ready to be installed.

Waiting for aux tank bracket to weld on and the frame paint starts

[Colin]

I like your approach, little bits of work add up to huge wins. It also helps stay consistent. When you complete a section it’s a great feeling being able to move on to the next one.

[64osby]

More parts cleaned and derusted.

[64osby]

Saved the spring shackles with a torch and an impact. Fun stuff.

Have picked most of everything back to the bulkhead, save the engine. It's like an architectural dig.



The thing in my hand is a rubber blob that was in the lower door pillar. Have found it in three other places around the foot wells. The screwdriver is pointing at another rubber blob. Looks like the drivers foot well had three patch pieces riveted on.

New foot wells, lower door pillar feet and door pillars are needed. Amongst many other things.

Have looked at many sources, RN AB, Pangolin and a few others. The one I like is YRM, but shipping might be a killer. Was building a cart and it stated add X more pounds for free shipping, but I don't know if that applies to the US.

Has anyone ordered from YRM?

[64osby]

Series - Yes we do understand that. We cut one front spring off. There is a shackle that we would like to save, it's loose on the bolt but won't clear the frame. We will get it at some point. Having a good one also makes it easier to source replacements locally.

[series guy]

You need to keep in mind what is expendable when dismantling your truck. Things you won’t be reusing can be removed much faster with a torch, angle grinder, or sawzall. You have to weigh spending 2 hours saving a $2 bolt vs getting the job done. It helps keep a positive mental attitude when progress is made.

[64osby]

Thanks Rust!

If we had bid this project we'd be loosing our ars.

Took almost 3 hours with the two of us to drop the front axle. It's just 6 bolts and two are still stuck in the chassis bushings. Could not get the axle U bolt nuts to move. Very happy to get this done.

Time to figure out the good, bad and the ugly.

[RustCollector]

What a great project for you and your son! My boys were too young to be helpful when mine was in pieces. Keep showing us progress - looks great.

[64osby]

I keep picking away. I learned on other projects to do at least 15 minutes a day. Keeps it moving forward. Front axle is ready to be pulled. Steering removal and bulkhead support was "interesting"

Doesn't seem to be much difference removing 60 year old or 20 years old nuts and bolt. They are all a pita.

[64osby]

Not perfect by any means but looks better. Have spent more on paint than on the chest.

[64osby]

Sometimes you find a good deal at a garage sale. Spotted this while driving past. Turned back and loaded it up for $20. Drawers all work great, just needs some paint.



My son has been saying we should get something like this. I had tools in 7 or 8 tool boxes. Trying to find anything was a pita. Now there is a drawer for the right tool.

[64osby]

Believe we solved the leaking rear axle housing. Saw a farcebook ad for a rear cross member. Pic had a rear housing. Asked about the housing and ended up up getting a complete front and a rear housing minus diff and shafts for $350 plus delivery. Will compare diffs to see if our old rear or the new front is the better of the two.