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Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

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  • 64osby
    replied
    I believe I found the source of the brake issue.

    Pulled off the cylinder and cleaned it. Inspection showed a line on the inside wall on the side of the cylinder that keeps failing.

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    I decided to hone the cylinder wall to see if it could be smoothed out. The more it was honed the more the line was apparent and the longer it became.

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    This looks like a casting failure, as it is lined up with the casting ridge on the outside of the cylinder.

    I think what was occuring was that brake fluid was slowly leaking past the piston seal thru the crack and when enough fluid leaked it pushed out the dust cover. This would explain why it took time between each failure.

    The other thing I noted was my quick fix to nurse it back home the last time it failed was to clamp the flex line with vice grips. When I did this the was a firm pedal on the first pump. There could have been a little air in that cylinder or it could have been pushing fluid past the piston seal on each pump to cause the softer pedal.

    ​​​​​​​New cylinder on order. Hopefully it is good from the start.

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  • series guy
    replied
    The max diameter is stamped on the drum. They are 10” drums when new.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    What would the spec be on the inside dimension?

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  • series guy
    replied
    I would bet the drum is oversized.

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  • loose gravel
    replied
    curiouser and curiouser.......

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  • 64osby
    replied
    ^^^. Yes, it moves freely.

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  • loose gravel
    replied
    Hmmm, interesting, is the opposite side free to go full distance? either internally or by shoe movement?

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Any idea why I have one wheel cylinder that keeps failing? It is new in April of this year. Three times in three months it pushed out the front dust cap, see picture.

    Trying to figure out if the drum is worn to a point that the pad and the piston go too far or if is just a bad casting letting fluid past and pushing out the dust cap. Used a new dust cap and seal each time it was put back together.

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    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    I found a thread here. https://www.gunsandrovers.com/forum/...d-selector-pin

    Thanks SafeAirOne nice video.

    I messed with it for a couple hours today. No difference, still full time 4wd. All shafts seem to move as required.

    ​​​​​​​The 4wd selector shaft travels about a 1/2". Does this sound about right?

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  • 64osby
    replied
    A question for the wise one's.

    I have not installed the front prop shaft yet because I believe the 4wd is not disengaging. My reason for thinking this is the front output flange can not be rotated be hand. To me if the 4wd is disengaged that flange should be free to spin. Thoughts?

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    First picture is high, red forward, yellow up.
    Second picture is red back.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    The NOS rear output and new seals did the trick so far.

    Blimey has become my daily driver as my PU is in the shop.

    Last Thursday it started pulling to the left when braking. One of the boots had pulled off the cylinder on the front right and it was leaking. Did a little work putting it back together.

    Drove it yesterday and all felt good, but the brake fluid in the reservoir was down a half inch today. Will keep watching to see where the leak may be.

    Not sure how accurate the speedometer is but I had a nice straight run of smooth country road and wound it up. Hit 67mph and decided that was good for a test.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Next up reinstalling the front prop shaft. Then installing the nos rear output from the transmission.

    I've had the rear output flange soaking for a day. The wax or whatever would stick or peel randomly. I removed as much as possible with care. Then decided to soak it to clean the remaining crud off. Hopefully gasoline does the trick.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Originally posted by series guy View Post
    Removing or adding shims is quick and easy. Remove the wheel and then place a bottle jack under the hub. Remove the 4 nuts or bolts holding the top swivel pin and adjust the bottle jack so that you can turn the pin easily by hand. It doesn’t take much pressure at all. Then simply twist and pull the pin out and make your adjustments. It’s a pretty simple job.
    Series, Great advice. Pulled one shim and back together. Super easy.

    ​​​​​​When I pulled the rim and drum off I noticed a small brake fluid leak. There was a small cut on one of the cover caps.

    The last time I had it apart the cylinder blew out. I just tucked everything back together. Apparently these are one time use cylinders, as they are all new.

    Luckily I had the foresight to order a rebuild kit when I ordered all the brake parts. Fixed that mess while fixing the wobble issue.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Originally posted by cnfowler View Post
    Did you set the preload on the swivels? That could cause the wonky feeling over bumps.


    Colin
    Colin this was the correct call. Thank you!

    Pulled one shim.

    Took a test drive and hit every bump and pot hole that I could find. Which is actually hard in the township I live in. Had to drive 2 miles just to find a bump.

    So much better. I can do 60mph and hit a big bump and stay on the road.

    Last edited by 64osby; 07-23-2023, 06:00 AM.

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Ike and his team did a great job shipping the nos rear transmission flange. It arrived in three days.

    Will have to clean it up a bit. Hoping to install it over the weekend.

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    Might even install some new SAE hardware as was suggested in a different thread.

    Progress!

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