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Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Ike and his team did a great job shipping the nos rear transmission flange. It arrived in three days.

    Will have to clean it up a bit. Hoping to install it over the weekend.

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    Might even install some new SAE hardware as was suggested in a different thread.

    Progress!

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  • loose gravel
    replied
    Originally posted by 64osby View Post
    Tonight after mowing half the grass I popped off the dash to see why the gas/ amp gauge light was flickering. Pulled the bulb and screwed it back in a few times. Seems to be much better in terms of keeping a current running through the bulb

    Would love to find a brighter bulb for that fixture / gauge pack. Anyone know what bulb might be better. My eyes could not see any markings on the bulb in place.
    You should be able to find the bulb factory # in the parts catalogue, then do a search on someplace like Superbrightleds.com

    Leave a comment:


  • Forester
    replied
    Try searching for LED bulbs. One of the members posted a complete list a while back.
    Jim

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Tonight after mowing half the grass I popped off the dash to see why the gas/ amp gauge light was flickering. Pulled the bulb and screwed it back in a few times. Seems to be much better in terms of keeping a current running through the bulb

    Would love to find a brighter bulb for that fixture / gauge pack. Anyone know what bulb might be better. My eyes could not see any markings on the bulb in place.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Originally posted by cnfowler View Post
    You work fast. You need a summer job? I've got a '69 that could use your attention.


    Colin
    I just put off mowing the grass to work on the Rover.

    Last night I was able to put in the new front diff flange and seal. Took a test drive for about 10 miles. No leaks as of this morning. Now the front prop shaft can go back in place.

    I still like to look at that 15 minutes a day on projects. It usually turns into more. Sometimes my better half is not happy.

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  • cnfowler
    replied
    You work fast. You need a summer job? I've got a '69 that could use your attention.


    Colin

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Thanks Colin.

    Series, sounds like a good plan of attack for the swivel.

    I have a new diff flange for the front. Hoping to get that installed in the next couple days. Ordered the rear output flange today. Hope to see it by the weekend.

    That might get me two less leaking points. Every bit counts.

    I have a large piece of sheet vinyl under Blimey to track the leaks, and save my driveway. It is easy to clean and shows the leaks really nice.

    Progress!

    I have to say it is absolutely enjoyable to be out and about driving this Series once again. Leaks and all.


    Leave a comment:


  • series guy
    replied
    Removing or adding shims is quick and easy. Remove the wheel and then place a bottle jack under the hub. Remove the 4 nuts or bolts holding the top swivel pin and adjust the bottle jack so that you can turn the pin easily by hand. It doesn’t take much pressure at all. Then simply twist and pull the pin out and make your adjustments. It’s a pretty simple job.

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  • cnfowler
    replied
    Excellent results.

    Colin

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Switched the springs tonight. It is on an even keel now. Took it for a test drive, Might be a little better in terms of the wobble of the right front.

    Next up is removing a shim from the swivel.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Hey Colin, thanks for the reply. Switching springs was on the list and can be done pretty quickly.

    I had set pre loads on both sides. My measuring device is not the most accurate. I couldn't find my fish scale, so I used a bow scale. The measurement is on the low side of the scale so it probably is plus or minus 15%.

    That is a good call from you. Thanks!.

    Leave a comment:


  • cnfowler
    replied
    The springs are handed so I would imagine you have them on the wrong side. Swapping them should take care of the high passenger side, at least while you're sitting in it.

    Did you set the preload on the swivels? That could cause the wonky feeling over bumps.


    Colin

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Drove Blimey to the Gilmore Car Museum on Sunday, about 50 miles each way. Had an awesome time with over 400 British vehicles in attendance. I will make a separate post on that soon.

    I discovered a few things.

    A had a fuel leak on the main tank. It does help if one were to tighten up the feed line union. Corrected that tonight.

    The rear output of the transmission is leaking a bit too much. Will have to dig into it. I was looking at seals / numbers. I have a PLE168. I see listing for both that and a FRC1780 on RN. Is there any difference between the two?

    When driving over 50mph if the drivers side hits a bump steering is controlled. If the passenger side hits a bump the steering gets loose and the control is wonky. This doesn't seem to happen at 45mph. The shocks are new and the play on the bearings seems equal when the sides are on a jack. I can see no loose fittings in the steering system. It has not been aligned, but drives straight.

    The other item I have noticed is the dimension from the ground to the bumper is 1" higher on the passenger side. I have loosened the bolts/ nuts for the springs and it doesn't make any difference. Both front springs have 9 leafs. I have full fuel tanks on both sides.

    I'm debating switching the springs side to side to see if it makes a difference.

    Any advice from those with more wisdom than I have?

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Originally posted by cnfowler View Post
    Blimey looks great.

    Colin
    Thanks Colin!

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Originally posted by series guy View Post
    Just a few minor tests to make sure you are worthy of Rover ownership.
    There is always something to work on, I'll be happy if all the "tests" are minor.

    Leave a comment:

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