Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

[64osby]

Made some gaskets to go between the steel and aluminum when mounting the front wing. Rubberized gasket material.



Years ago I made an "adapter" for the air intake on the heater. A dryer vent hose fits the heater intake perfect. The sewn vinyl seals the other side. This keeps out any smell from the engine compartment when running the fan/heater.



Was able to install one wing.



Lights slowed down the process. Crusty!



Only took four hours.

[loose gravel]

Nice feeling when it comes together!

[64osby]

Having battery/ dynamo issues so could not fire up the engine today. More on that later.

Did a few other smalls. Removing old door seals. Installed floor pan for drivers side. Also figured out my trailer wiring for a 4 plug.

A few weeks ago I found a Hopkins 4 flat mounting bracket at the local Blain's Farm and Fleet. I have many 4 plug trailer leads from a previous project. The one used needed a little sanding down to fit the bracket, different manufacturers.

A few months ago I purchased a hitch that probably came off a Defender. It is not an exact fit but should work well once two more bolts are installed. Got a great deal. Made a 1/4" plate for the backside of the cross member.





I plan on getting a Brake light that fits in the hitch and plugs into the 4way to keep corrosion away while not in use trailering.

[64osby]

When I removed the floors and cowlings about half the heads had to be ground off because of seized bolts. I decided to change all the cowling and floor attachment hardware to 1/4x20 bolts. Added some rubber washers where needed. I used zink plated to try and minimize the galvanic reaction that will occur. Also used some anti seize to hopefully be proactive.

Instead of ordering the standard replacement kit I ordered some 1/4 20 spring nuts and purchased some matching bolts. Cost $10 for the spring nuts (30 pack) and $6.00 for 100 3/4" 1/4x20 bolts. The floor kit RN sells is much more $$$.





Progress!

[64osby]

Fit the rear door and was able to adjust it where it works fairly well with no seals in place. The latch still hangs up in the door frame, but it has always done that. I just lift the handle to close the door.

Also placed the passenger door but was not too successful in getting it aligned. The lower hinge needs a rebuild and the nut is frozen. Tired of fighting the 20mph winds and 16 degree wind chill I ended up on the computer.

This is registered as a '62, but I have never done any research on the VIN. Turns out this was the 373rd 2a that was made. Most likely produced in early October of 1961, possibly late September. Exported to the USA. I have met the two previous owners, and know there was one prior. Probably one or two more I didn't meet. I've owned it for 30 years.

The original frame had the front horns replaced about 25 years ago and the stamped portion was not saved. Never thought about it at the time. I looked for the VIN stamp on the replacement frame. Looks like it is was produced in the latter part of 1973. Which means it could be a '73 or a 74 S3, 1974 was the last year for the 259 Vin numbers. Pulls up as a 88" hardtop, export USA, made from '71 to 74. This was also the last year records show exported to the USA.

SO I have 62,74,94,11,22..... Land Rover.

Wasn't there a song about a Cadillac that went something like that?

Edit - It's a Johnny Cash song. One bit at a time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hb9F2DT8iEQ

[64osby]

Excellent. I'm not usually a fan of vanity plates but 'Blimey' sure is a good one.

Hence the title of the thread.

[worldofinflation]

Excellent. I'm not usually a fan of vanity plates but 'Blimey' sure is a good one.

[64osby]

Had a short day of work and a nice day for this time of year. Temps in the 50's. It was time to install the cap.

I was able to drive the Rover out from under the carport. All of 15 feet. Cleaned up the mess that was under it and covered the drive with kitty litter.



Used a furniture dolly to roll the cap in place. Then attached four straps to a Douglas Fir 2x8 that spans the carport supports.



With my son helping we lifted the cap using the straps.



I was able to back up under the cap and attach it to the wind screen.

Lifted the back portion as high as possible to install the tub to cap seals. I've seen where most people use some form of contact cement. I decided to try some Gorilla double sided tape. It worked pretty good. Cleaned the seals with acetone and slowly applied the tape. The second seal had big bend in it that created some issues. The seal tucked up in place and the tape adhered to the vertical surface.

Dropped the cap in place and added the hardware. The biggest headache was getting the center attachment to align with the tub and the seat bracket. Had to get creative to compress the seal to get all the holes aligned. Also put double sided tape on my finger to hold the nut to get it in place.



It was a good day!
Progress

[64osby]

Automated car wash for the Rover will never happen! It may peel the last of my OEM paint off. Time will tell if the seals are air tight.

[RustCollector]

Good luck with that. I tried the adhesive kind that sticks to the flap (if I remember right), and I couldn't get it to fit right. I went the the OEM style, which fit but are not air tight. It's just one reason that I never do automated car washes in the Rover. Let us know how it works!

[64osby]

After ordering the vent seals that go on the vents instead of on the bulkhead I decided to order some inexpensive 1/2" bulb to mate with the vent seals. Maybe a double seal will keep things dry on the inside of the bulkhead.

[64osby]

Still like to know why screen shots don't post like pictures.

[64osby]

I've been looking for some reasonable used tires for when this project gets roadworthy. I don't see many 235/85/16 listed and really don't want to invest big dollars until I'm sure all systems are go. My current tires are 20 years old and three of them have great tread but are rotted, splits, weather checks and not safe.

Found a good deal on two Goodyear Wranglers that will help the cause.


Hoping to get the cap on tomorrow before the rain starts.

Progress.

[64osby]

Removed the ammeter with the thought that there is not much to loose by opening it up.



Sure enough I had let the magic smoke out. Did a little digging and found a found wire that was similar in gauge. Disassembled the gauge, removed the toasted wire and installed a replica.


Mangled the needle and was able to straighten it up pretty good. Had fun putting it all back together. It is not quite pointing at zero and will work on adjusting it a little more.

Pulled the dynamo and cleaned it up a little more. Reinstalled it, even plugged it in this time ( might be why there was no current). Fired up the motor and... ...the dynamo and the ammeter are working. Who knows for how long or how accurate.



Fun stuff and progress!

Next up try and fix the swivel seal, again.

[64osby]

I had a couple electric fuel pumps delivered for testing and possibly more. Plumbed in the pump, switch and tanks.

To quote Dr. Frankenstein (Gene Wilder) "It's Alive".

Fired right up. Happened so fast I couldn't believe it.

Further inspection revealed the dynamo was not providing any charge. My cheap meter showed 1 volt, no continuity. Pulled it.


Brushes were stuck. Cleaned them up and they were moving as they're supposed to. It now tests at just over 6 ohms which is close to spec. Reinstalled and still getting 1 volt.

Decided to look at the regulator. Pushed in the D side contact and it stuck and things went south. Looks like I let the magic smoke out of the ammeter. I can buy pass the meter and it runs, still has the amp light on. On to more testing and troubleshooting.

I thought I pretty smart when I picked up two dynamos at a car show last year. Had just put them in storage. Pulled one out to see if I could make it work. Tried to put it in. Pulled it back out as it would not fit. Never realized that it was a different size until they were placed side by side.


On to more trouble shooting and to see if the ammeter is repairable or needs to be replaced.

Progress.