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Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Pulled the prop shaft off today. Click image for larger version

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  • 64osby
    replied
    To my knowledge we have never had any mail stolen. Our box is one of 8 all together at the road. It may have been put in the wrong box.

    Leave a comment:


  • loose gravel
    replied
    Has other mail been stolen? We had a thief coming around, after 2 weeks I caught him on a trail cam in broad daylight. He spent 8 months in jail.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    So my fuel pump was "delivered" 3 days after it was ordered. USPS says it made it to my mailbox. It never made it to my house. Will have to order another as USPS is not taking any responsibility. It has been over a month.

    Replaced the front output seal from the transfer case in testing it seems to be good.

    The front differential seal failed after 3 miles of test running, vehicle is still on stands. It seemed to be worse than the last seal.

    I noticed that the drivers side wheel has no play. The passenger has way too much play in it. It was not like that when it was assembled. The other thing I think I saw when putting the last seal, (the 3 seal) is it appears that the output shaft looks to be offset about 1/16 to 1/8" to the passenger side within the diff. Is that somehow possible?

    I have more seals and am thinking of starting from scratch on the assembly of the front axle to try and get it correct.

    Anybody have any great ideas?

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Front prop seals are back in and the mating surface was cleaned up. Hopefully it does the trick.

    I ordered a new electric fuel pump on April 24th, still have not received it.

    I'm having strange issues with test running the engine. Sometimes it won't start. Other times if I turn off the current electric fuel pump it will start, turn the pump on and it will run for three to five minutes then it stops, like a switch was turned off.

    Then it will be hard to restart, or will fire but not run.

    Part of me thinks it may be old gas, as it sat for 4 months over the winter. Part of me wonders it it is the fuel pump causing carb issues, as there is not currently a by pass. Part of me wonders if the might be an issue with spark that is newly popped up.

    New gas and a much needed new battery are my first steps as I wait for the new bypass fuel pump.

    Leave a comment:


  • series guy
    replied
    Just as important as the seal is the surface it rides on. If there is a groove worn by the seal then it is almost guaranteed that the new seal will leak. Sometimes you can seat the seal a bit differently so that it rides in a different area. Replacing the pinion or gearbox flange or installing a speedisleeve should take care of the issue. Also make sure you don’t distort the new seal during installation. Before you take anything apart check for play in the bearings.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    "Winter is here."

    Big slow down in working on the project for three reasons. Cold/ snow being the first. Started a new job so not as much free time as previous. Third is I'm back Mentoring our local HS FRC Robotics team.

    I have a few issues going on.

    I replaced the front diff to prop shaft seal and with a few test runs it is leaking again. In addition the transfer output to the prop shaft is also now leaking. Will have to pull the prop shaft and see if the alignment marks are visible and lined up.

    When doing testing the engine fires right up. It will run for about 15 minutes at various rpm and then it will sputter and die I had installed a cheapo electric fuel pump that doesn't have a bypass and there is no return line. My thoughts tell me that the carb is slowly flooding which causes the engine to die.

    Solutions would be to install a better fuel pump with an internal bypass, a fuel filter after the pump with a return line or a return line from the carb. Leaning towards a better fuel pump.

    New tires have to be installed. My free time is after 5 during the week, Saturday is 9 to 4 with Robotics. Not many tire places open on Sunday in my area.

    Almost ready to roll!.

    One thing I did do is play around with Plasti dip spray. Years ago I bought a nice set of rubber coated gear box covers for the hump. Most of the rubber had fallen off the foam. Figured I would see if there was an option to make the pieces usable.

    This is the outcome.
    Click image for larger version

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    Not much progress, but still progress!

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  • 64osby
    replied
    Click image for larger version

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    Just a minor issue with my seal

    I think that was a blue bag part. Had an old stock Karson's and installed it. Hoping it stays together.

    I probably damaged the seal when it was installed.

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Originally posted by siiirhd88 View Post
    You do have the driveshaft yokes aligned?
    I looked today and only have a readable mark on the front. I did change the alignment so both yolks were aligned. Is there another way ?

    Removed the spline cover that I had put on the rear shaft, a left over from a damaged front cover. When running I could see it wobble out of shape.

    Rotated the rear diff input 180 degrees while I was there.

    Tested again and did not hear the clunk noise, at least at the rpms I was running.

    Looked up front a the input flange for the front diff was spitting out gear oil everywhere, good for rust protection.

    Pretty sure I have another new seal. Maybe second time will be a charm.

    Leave a comment:


  • siiirhd88
    replied
    You do have the driveshaft yokes aligned?

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Made another video of the drive train noise. It think I'll be checking the rear prop shaft bolts and the drive flange nut tension at the same time.

    https://youtu.be/aqNAZDu4LJY

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    Will not be looking at anything for a week or so related to the noise the the video.

    Today our outside temperature went up by 100%,. It went from 2 to 4 degrees. Tomorrow it is supposed to get up to 8 degrees. They say next weekend will be close to 40. That might be a better time to start looking at what is going on.

    Merry Christmas to all!

    Leave a comment:


  • 64osby
    replied
    50 wulf I didn't cut the hole in the wing for the mud shield. I cut it to adjust the master clutch cylinder with out taking the wing off. Had many issues when I bought this 30 years ago.

    The link to clip on hex nuts didn't open for me, but I believe you're linking are what I call spring nuts. Bought a pack of 1/4x20 for installing the floor panels. Didn't think to use them for the mud shield.

    Great idea.

    Leave a comment:


  • 50 wulf
    replied
    Originally posted by loose gravel View Post
    I could hear the clunk in reverse, almost sounds like wind up. Are the Ujoints good? You were in 2x high correct?
    I also hear it in reverse. Sounds like maybe something going out in the diff?

    Leave a comment:


  • 50 wulf
    replied
    Originally posted by loose gravel View Post
    Guys you don't need to cut up your rare wing tops to get to those bolts. Just use these slip on nuts on the top. They work great, and only leave a tiny gap at the top. Been using them for years.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/nuts/clip-on-hex-nuts/

    Another tip, these work equally well to hold on the wing to bulkhead. The factory wing to bulkhead clip on nuts strip out easily and use the very odd 17/32" headed acme bolts which do not fit a 1/2" socket well or a 13mm socket well.

    Leave a comment:

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