Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

[series guy]

Thinner wire helps.

[50 wulf]

For thin metal, there's no substitute for using shielding gas. Flux cored stuff is messy and better for heavier gauge metal. Switch to an .030" wire, and get a bottle of 75/25 gas. It's wonderful. No slag to clean up and if you burn through, just let it cool for a few seconds, then pulse weld it until the hole fills in. Easy peasy.

[64osby]

Looked up the cost of a gas kit $280 from Summit. Might have to look at that if I ever do another bulkhead.

[64osby]

Went all out and bought a brand new spray gun.


HF Detail spray gun for $15. I know, it was a huge investment.

Allowed me to spray the new side panel for the seat box and the foot wells.





The sprayer worked great. Not perfect but it good enough for me.

[series guy]

A blind man riding by on a fast horse would be glad to see it. Looks nice to me.

[RustCollector]

Agreed. Looks great.

[64osby]

Thanks guys!

Both the clutch and brake pedals were frozen up. Took a few hours today to disassemble, clean, hone, grease and reassemble. Driving out the pins was a PITA.

Both are now smooth as silk.

The clutch master was in good working order and was left untouched. The brake master was not so good.

Spent a while cleaning but it was frozen in place. Was able to get some good air pressure in to it and it released. Cleaned, honed and reassembled with a rebuild kit. Hoping all is good. It looks like a quality master and not to sure how good the Brit Part replacements are.

Need a new split pin and should be good to get both the clutch and brake assemblies installed.

[64osby]

I have no pictures of the brake and clutch housings mounted to the foot well. I'm hoping that I have not reversed the two. It was quite a pain to get them this far.



Can one of you truly knowledgeable person's confirm if if this is correct for a '62 2a.

I have seen conflicting pictures on the www. Imagine that.

[64osby]

Finally was able to this all sorted out and tight, at least until a leak test Is done. Hopefully those 28 bolts that hold the steering, brake and clutch won't be touched for a long time.

I am looking to move the box over soon and thinking about moving the box, sides and roof as one piece.

Does anyone have a guestimate what the total weight would be?

[loose gravel]

By box you mean the tub? Total I'd say less than 200# just damn awkward.

[64osby]

By box you mean the tub? Total I'd say less than 200# just damn awkward.

There would be 4 or 5 moving all of it. Yes awkward but should be able to move it as one big piece.

[64osby]

Having had great fall weather I've been able to make decent progress.

Brakes, new lines and cylinders, rebuilt the master. After about five or six cycles around the vehicle bleeding I'm very happy. There is a firm pedal on the first pump. I don't think I have ever had that before.

Clutch, new lines, rebuilt master and slave. Appears to be in working order.

Waiting on a ball joint to complete the steering.

Heater installed, measured about five times before cutting the hole and drilling in the new foot well.



Electrical, made connections to all that is available. Installed a test battery and started testing. Reworked a few connectors. Wipers, heater fan, dash lights, starter and gauges are all working.

One thing I am questioning is the coil became very warm when connected. I unplugged the two leads until it can be looked at closer.

Progress

[64osby]

I had purchased a couple fuel tank filters screens based on a recommendation of a member here.


They fit the pick up tube really well. An issue is the overall diameter of the fitting. The fitting is 56/64ths, the hole for the pickup tube is 50/64ths.

On the military tank this did not cause an problem as it can be installed by reaching in the tank.

On the other tank there is not a hole that is large enough. I debated bending the tube to allow it to get to the sender hole, installing the filter, then bend the tube straight. Sounds great in theory but chose a different option. Another option was to drill a bigger hole, but I didn't want metal chips in the tank.

I pulled out my mobile vise and crimped the round fitting to more of an oblong shape with the pickup tube in place.



This "precision" tool process allowed the fitting to angle through the hole while keeping the tube straight.

Progress!

[RustCollector]

I remember using a stainless hose clamp to secure one of these when the "precision" fitting failed. No issues so far.

[64osby]

Pulled off the top and set it aside. Moved the tub on to the good frame.

Before attachment a few little things needed to be addressed.
The mounting locations at the rear were heavily corroded. Cleaned them up with a wire wheel. Sprayed a little vinegar, then rinsed. Gooped on some JB Weld and covered the area with an aluminum patch cut from old seat box material.



Used some rubberized gasket material between the tub and the mounting plates. Placed a rubber washer on the back side, then a washer, lock washer and nut.


The tub supports will need to be replaced soon but not now. Not a task to do outside right now. "Winter is coming"

Was able to get the spacing between the bulkhead and the tub to 34 3/4" which took considerably more time than it should have. Had to use some straps to pull the bulk head forward. Was finally able to lock it all in position, might be +/- 1/16".

Ran a string and aligned the tub to the bulkhead and bolted the front in with more rubberized gasket and rubber washers.

No pictures right now, but happy with the progress.