Blimey, a 62 IIa 88" rebuild

[64osby]

I decided to use a manual tank switch. Moeller boat switch, simple and no electricity involved for reliability.

Used the RH hand brake blank plate for a mounting location. Added two 1/2" hdpe spacers so the switch handle doesn't stick out to far.

Still a lot of plumbing to do.

[64osby]

Also have to figure out why screen shots post as small files and not large like pictures.

[64osby]

Found what thought would be a great deal on some used tires on Marketplace.





Set of five Cooper's listing stated only 2,000 miles. Size 235/85/16.

Contacted the guy, confirmed tires and time. Drove 160 miles one way.

I get there and he has "the" tires pulled and lined up at the door. The tires were not even close to what was listed. He had 225/75/16 Firestone's that were six to eight years old.

He stated his wife must have posted the wrong pictures. What an asshat!

Wasted a day and a lot of gas.

[siiirhd88]

The shut off/ safety switch is a great suggestion. Thank you.

The switch is an "ON - ON" switch with a two sets of contacts, one which is closed when oil pressure is 'low' and the other set closed when oil pressure is 'high'. There are three wires on the switch, one out to the fuel pump, one incoming power from the ignition on circuit, and the other incoming power from the start circuit. When oil pressure is low, the out to the fuel pump is connected to the start circuit. Only when the engine is cranking the fuel pump has power. When the engine starts the oil pressure rises swapping the switch contacts and the ignition on power now supplies the fuel pump. If the engine stops the oil pressure drops and the ignition on contact opens stopping the fuel pump.

This could be an issue if you have low oil pressure at idle, or if it takes a while for oil pressure to rise such as very cold weather.

You can find switches with different setpoints. This one is from VDO set at 4 psig:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vdo-230604.

I use a relay in the fuel pump power circuit, and use the safety switch wire for relay switching, not the actual power in and out to the fuel pump.

Bob

[loose gravel]

If you want to go with the Pollak set up I have a write up in my blog; https://poppageno.blogspot.com/2015/...and-rover.html

[64osby]

... Note that an electric pump could continue to pump fuel after an accident. I had this issue after I rolled the SIII 88, but I was able to shut off power. There are safety switches available that will shut off the power on low engine oil pressure, if the engine stops in the accident.

With two tanks the Pollak valve is a good choice, with the capability to swap fuel pumps, fuel gauges, and return lines if fitted, but plumbing and wiring can get a little complicated.

Bob

The shut off/ safety switch is a great suggestion. Thank you.

[siiirhd88]

There are a couple of different Series mechanical fuel pumps, and the one on the later trucks does not have a sediment bowl. I run electric fuel pumps on our trucks, one per tank, but I think one pump mounted close to the switchover valve would work OK. Note that an electric pump could continue to pump fuel after an accident. I had this issue after I rolled the SIII 88, but I was able to shut off power. There are safety switches available that will shut off the power on low engine oil pressure, if the engine stops in the accident.

With two tanks the Pollak valve is a good choice, with the capability to swap fuel pumps, fuel gauges, and return lines if fitted, but plumbing and wiring can get a little complicated.

Bob

[64osby]

I spent over an hour trying to find a proper rebuild kit. No such luck. I can a buy a new mechanical pump for about $40 to $50.

Based on Series advice and other forum(s) input about eliminating vapor lock and hard starts, I've decided to try an electric pump.

Question - There will be two tanks with a switching valve. I know from what I've read it is best to place electric pumps close to the tank. Would placing it after the valve be acceptable or should I look at placing one pump for each tank before the valve?

[64osby]

Well that kit sure looks better. I can't tell on my phone if the diaphragm is correct.

The kit I received was an AllMakes4x4 part AEU2760.

[BKP17]

https://www.griggslawnandtractor.net...number-s41634/

Someone told me awhile back this is what they used to fix that problem
Says out of stock but I'd give them a call anyway

Not very happy tonight.

I ordered a fuel pump rebuild kit. It states it is good for 2, 2a and 3 Series.



The diaphragm does not have slots to engage the arm. The gasket was too long and would not seat the pump to the block. There was no screen or gasket for the bowl.



Removed the pump when it is 23 degrees, with a wind chill of 9.

This kit does not allow the pump to be rebuilt. Not very pleased.

I obviously ordered the wrong kit or it is not listed properly, or both.

Not pleased. Will wait to see what the supplier says.

[series guy]

Not any real help but I used the old gasket as a template and made a block off plate for the mechanical pump and went electric with a return line. Solved the problem of poor quality mechanical pumps and vapor lock. It worked flawlessly until I made the change to injection which also eliminates the two problems.

[64osby]

Not very happy tonight.

I ordered a fuel pump rebuild kit. It states it is good for 2, 2a and 3 Series.



The diaphragm does not have slots to engage the arm. The gasket was too long and would not seat the pump to the block. There was no screen or gasket for the bowl.



Removed the pump when it is 23 degrees, with a wind chill of 9.

This kit does not allow the pump to be rebuilt. Not very pleased.

I obviously ordered the wrong kit or it is not listed properly, or both.

Not pleased. Will wait to see what the supplier says.

[64osby]

Not as bad as Buffalo, but it sure slows down outside Rover work.

Another 5" predicted for tomorrow.

[64osby]

Probably at the dimmer switch.

I switched it out for a dash mounted on/off/on switch. It has always been a pita to hit the foot switch wearing hunting/winter boots.

Power test fine at the back of the switch.

[loose gravel]

Probably at the dimmer switch.