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2.25 Petrol rebuild to a 2.8 ACR... I hope...

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  • 2.25 Petrol rebuild to a 2.8 ACR... I hope...

    I am going to need as much help and guidance as this forum can offer. I am learning as I go, and have absolutely no mechanical background. BUT, I have the workshop manual, YouTube, and an extreme interest in doing things myself and learning as I go. I'm not sure what really makes any of us want to work on these old vehicles, but for me this is my hobby and therapy.

    I have a thread on DSource as well (for the entire build), but I felt the knowledge and experience with the 2.25 Petrol probably existed in this community - so thanks for having me!

    I appreciate any and all feedback (affirmation that whatever I did seems correct... and correcting whatever I did that is wrong). I'm along for the ride, and really hope this can all come together!

    How I came to find Roland at ACR I'm not entirely sure - just a lot of reading. I would love to be able to get a little more power out of this 4 cylinder, and try to keep the overall feel original. I'm not looking for a speedster... just something that can pull into visible traffic on the country roads!

    I appreciate your interest,

    Dave

  • #2
    The beginning:
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    Dismantled the 110 over the summer. Every bolt was rusted. snapped the majority of them. Extreme exercise in patience. The 110 was imported from France, and spent some time in Africa. The chassis was rusted on the outriggers (held together with hope) and the rear. So I have a new galvanized chassis to put it back together.

    The engine was rebuilt somewhere along the line (pistons 0.020 over):


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    The header was in pretty good shape:

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    • #3
      So...

      after A LOT of reading, I sent the header off to Roland at ACR in England. Extremely responsive and awesome to work with. I want this project to go well, just so I can work with him again on another rebuild!

      The header is shaved down to 9:1. It had a bunch of other magic done (that I honestly don't understand), but it came back clean and painted!

      I bought a new crankshaft from him giving more piston travel. The new crank alone brings the displacement up to 2.5 liters...

      Not to stop there, I also got his 95mm pistons! (standard is 90.47mm I think). That brings the displacement up to 2.8 litres.

      I also went with his new camshaft.

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      old versus new pistons:


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      • #4
        The next step was to find someone in the Twin Cities to rebore the cylinders. Apparently going up by 4.5mm is a lot to ask of the block. But I found someone after a recommendation from my local Land Rover independent shop:

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        • #5
          Next was a repaint. I found the original color from PaintMan in the UK. Painted it last weekend.

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          • #6
            First up was installing the new crank, bearings and t-seal.

            I pretty much followed every step from Mike's YouTube video at Brittanica Restorations. It's so incredible that he has such a wealth of knowledge, and shares it in such a detailed away. I of course also followed along in my workshop manual:

            Starting off:
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            Next were the new bearings (old bearings on the left). I used Lucas Heavy Duty oil stabilizer (just like the Brittanica Restorations):

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            Plop the crank in:


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            Then the thrust washers (standard size). Copper towards the crank. Loaded with oil stabilizer.


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            • #7
              then tightened up (not torqued yet) the bearing caps and checked the end float. I was super excited that my dial gauge arrived today (I've never used one before). I checked the float many times, and it was within spec (4 thousandths of an inch).





              Next up was the T Seal for the number 5 bearing cap. Again, followed Brittanica on this one. Loctite 5980 seems impossible to find. But this was available, and to the best of my reading the Permatex RTV is similar stuff... I hope. I packed it in until is overflowed.



              Then sequentially torqued it all down to 100 ft lbs






              Hopefully I haven't messed anything up on this first part - But it is a great feelings to officially be putting the 110 back together. Tomorrows goal will be pistons!















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              • #8
                Welcome. Looks like you are doing things proper. I hope your rear main seal done the Britannica Restorations way works better than mine. I followed Mike's instructions and I still have a pretty decent leak. I'm going to address it in the spring when I install a rebuilt transmission... that I plan to rebuild in my basement this winter!
                1969 Marine Blue Bugeye

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                • #9
                  Love the paint…
                  hiw did you get paint man to ship overseas.. that wasn’t happening when I built my 5mb…

                  looks great

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                  • #10
                    It looks to me like you are doing it right and doing a great job. I wish YouTube existed when I started my restoration— I might be done by now.

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                    • #11
                      I use Permatex The Right Stuff for T-seals. Have had success so far.

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                      • #12
                        Thanks very much for checking it over and confirming - I really appreciate it.

                        rejeep: I have family in the UK, so they purchased it and shipped it out to me. Hazardous material shipping is absolutely insane (but safe I guess?). I have some left over if you need some!

                        Next up are Pistons and rings:

                        Weighed with the grudegeon pin they are all spot on 695 grams (I double checked the scale is accurate). The new condrods weigh in at 808 grams each (one being 807 grams).

                        Using my brand new feeler gauges I checked the ring gaps. The ACR instructions state a minimum of 0.38mm (0.014"). I have no idea what the MAXIMUM gap is. Going by the manual for a 2.5 petrol the maximum gap-in-bore is 0.65mm (0.026")... that is for pistons that are 90.47mm diameter, and these new ones are 95mm diameter

                        Anywho,

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                        first/top compression rings have 0.65mm/0.65mm/0.60mm/0.60mm gaps

                        Second compression rings are 0.48mm/0.48mm/0.48mm/0.48mm gaps

                        So overall I think they are all within spec (albeit the top end for the top rings)? But not too confident on this one.

                        The oil rings "fit out of the box"






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                        • #13
                          This is where I could really use some guidance: ring gap spacing.

                          Following from the Brittanica video, and some threads on D source, this is what I came up with:

                          Front of engine toward the right, camshaft (thrust?) at the bottom. the rings are spaced 120 degrees. The 3rd ring (oil ring) is at the back (Hastings instructions state to put the spacer in position then the rails 1 inch on either side... so 1 inch on either side of "3" are the rail gaps). Nothing is over the grudge pin... seem ok?

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                          • #14
                            Rings will rotate when the engine is running. Staggering the gap is only for initial start up. I always went 180 degrees over the pin bosses.

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                            • #15
                              I wish I could get this much done in two days.

                              Looks great and would like to see the cost to performance evaluation when it is completed.
                              Phone or Drive, Not Both. Stop driving distracted.

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