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Holley sniper install (autolite)

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  • Holley sniper install (autolite)

    Going in… making punch list and the main question is if there is an adapter made to install the Holley temp sender into the series block?
    -seems like we had people asking what sort of parts people might like made. Holley sensor is 3/8 NPT male and the Land Rover adapter to block for the temp sender is 5/8 UNF? So a 3/8 NPT female to 5/8 UNF male.
    rest of list:
    - fuel pump (intank, Delphi for early 2000 GM trucks)
    - 180 thermostat
    - throttle linkage (looking at extending arm ala zenith style by laying piece of flat stock onto sniper throttle arm)
    - O2 sensor bung

    Erik

    1970ish exMOD 109

  • #2
    I made the temp sender adaptor by welding a hex nut to the factory adaptor and running a 3/8” pipe tap into it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Click image for larger version

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ID:	209879 Mark, been using your thread on the sniper install as a guide. Seemed pretty anticlimactic. Picked up some large hex nuts, ordered a 3/8 NPT tap and drill bit kit.
      just got my winter thermostat..
      Erik

      1970ish exMOD 109

      Comment


      • #4
        You are going to need to drill a bypass hole in that thermostat.

        Comment


        • #5
          The main parts of a Sniper install are; exhaust bung for o2 sensor, temp sender adaptor, electric fuel pump using fuel injection hose on the pressure side, modify the throttle arm on the truck linkage to work the throttle body. Remember to hook the black and red wires direct to the battery and have a serious ground to the block.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by series guy View Post
            … have a serious ground to the block.
            Could you elaborate on ‘serious’ ground to the block? I have battery cable (probably 4awg) from the battery to the frame and also, in the factory ground location, near the starter to the frame.
            Thoughts on throttle body install, like yours, direct to the phenolic block vs using a zenith carb adapter? mocking it up like a zenith looks to work. The wiring comes out towards the front, which may be more of a detractor in the appearance category.
            Erik

            1970ish exMOD 109

            Comment


            • #7
              I have a 4ga. negative cable run from the battery direct to the engine block. The starter is the largest draw and warrants the best connection. I also run braided ground straps from the starter bolt to the chassis and the bulkhead. I bolted the Sniper to the intake with the phenolic block. I drilled a hole at a steep angle through the phenolic block for the vacuum port. I think I also hat to file off the alignment sleeve that would have protruded into the Solex carb throat.
              Last edited by series guy; 01-23-2023, 01:41 AM.

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              • #8
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ID:	209921 O ne of the biggest modifications needed for the install is the throttle linkage. with the throttle body installed on the manifold studs (no 90 degree adaptor) the throttle arm pushes upward for open just like the old Solex. Unlike the old Solex that had an arm that made a large upward arc the Sniper arm is short and low. This makes building linkage a pain, especially if you have already modified your linkage to pull down for a Weber. One thing that I think would help greatly is to lower the pivot shaft that the throttle arm mounts on. I did not do this on my install but have since modified the bracket that bolts to the steering box mounting bolts and holds the pivot shaft by removing an inch out of it just above the top bolt hole and welding it back together. I think this would help the geometry of the throttle lever greatly but mine is currently working well so I haven't revisited it.I'll attach a few photos that might help.

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                • #9

                  Mark,
                  do you recall where in the manual it talks about drilling a vacuum port like you’ve done? Swear I have seen it but not finding it in either the quick start guide or full length manual.

                  The first decision for folks, decide which linkage you want to go with (zenith or Weber). For some, that decision may have been made already by what type of carb you have. I am running zenith style and zenith adapter because a) that’s what I had, b) like the vacuum port location in the adapter for power brakes, and c) didn’t realize the difference until got this far along.
                  realized something was amiss when the TPS heat shield wasn’t shielding the TPS.

                  ​​
                  Can confirm extending the throttle arm from a piece made of 1/8 thick metal and drilled the ends fits existing throttle linkage easily .

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                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by Xplitive; 01-24-2023, 08:56 PM.
                  Erik

                  1970ish exMOD 109

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I don’t recall anything in the manual about drilling the vacuum hole. Remember this was not designed with the Land Rover in mind.

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                    • #11
                      Here is my temp sensor. I just drilled into the thermostat housing, tapped, and install. If I had to do it all over again, I'd drill and tap a bit lower as well as shallower. As it sits, it interferes with the skirted thermostat. So I had to notch the thermostat skirt to make it all fit. Not a big deal, just hate taking sheers to a new thermostat. Maybe also at an angle? Dunno. But yes you need the 180F thermostat for EFI. Most EFI consider 180F to be "warmed up". With the 165F (or whatever) thermostat, the computer constantly goes in and out of warm up enrichment. Causing all kind of fun anomalies.





                      I'll try to get you a throttle linkage and fuel pump photo later on. I never thought work and a family would prevent me from going out to the garage to snap a few photos.

                      Also I think I have a thread on here about my megasquirt install as well. ​

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                      • #12
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                        Originally posted by LR Max View Post
                        Here is my temp sensor. I just drilled into the thermostat housing, tapped, and install. If I had to do it all over again, I'd drill and tap a bit lowe
                        Not sure if it’s just me, but not seeing pictures. When quoting you, does appear there is code in the blank space.
                        lease do post pics, helpful to everyone.

                        opened up an area under the throttle body vacuum port. Yep, you guessed it, started on the wrong side but fortunately corrected.

                        While on a business trip, dropped off the tank and fittings at the welder. Upon return, promptly shredded the adapter running the drill bit through too far. Now all the Land Rover temp sender adapters are sold out.. someone really needs to make an adapter..
                        moving forward with POR15 to seal the tank along with finishing fuel lines and running electrical while coming up with a cheap solution to the adapter.
                        Erik

                        1970ish exMOD 109

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                        • #13
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ID:	211226 Well up and running.
                          Idling pretty high at the moment and reading manual on how to get the IAC to come down. It’s at 20% and isn’t responding to adjustments in the idle screw. More to follow. Be sure to do the initial set up correctly and it will fire right away. I had accidentally set displacement to 2000 thinking that was as close as I’d get to cc. But it’s in CID and an entry of 140 started right away.
                          again, first decision is which throttle linkage are you beginning with (zenith or converted to Weber)? Stayed with a zenith style and thus my sniper is rotated 90 compared to series guy. Not sure if it makes a difference but moves the TPS over the intake runners. Have to finish putting on a stock heat shield.
                          temp sender adapter, a drill arbor is the same thread and about $3 - 5 shipped from HD. 3/8 Npt jam nut various.
                          Fuel system:
                          Delphi intank pump. Mounting ring from vetteworksonline.com. The owner, Dan, told me which pump to use for the depth of the tank. The pump has a built in vent port and fuel sender. Looking at an ohm converter from autometer to try out with Series 3 fuel gauge. If it works, would move the mounting hole over and get rid of the stock fuel sender.
                          quick disconnects and Dorman nylon fuel line kit.
                          Harness and fuel line routing. Ran the wire harness across the bulkhead, fuel lines inside the perimeter of the frame as much as possible. Probably 5 different ways and thoughts on how to do this.

                          Erik

                          1970ish exMOD 109

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                          • #14
                            Since the initial start, the sniper hasn’t…
                            Here is a thread on it detailing the troubleshooting and fix.

                            https://forums.holley.com/forum/holl...-autolite-1100

                            For those looking for the condensed version, the sniper has a crap connector for the fuel injector. Everything indicated all systems should go but a little sleuth work narrowed it done fairly quickly.
                            will be replacing the connector with the Bosch EV style asap.
                            the IAC went down to below 10% on the first start up since the fix but my idle adjustment attempts have had it creep to 20 and a fast idle. Not going to rule out some sort of vacuum leak at temperature so more to follow…
                            Erik

                            1970ish exMOD 109

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Sorry to hear of your issues. I’m actually just back from lunch at the local Chinese restaurant and it was so nice out that I had to drive the Rover. The smoothness of the throttle response still amazes me. I hope you get yours sorted quickly.

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