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Holley sniper install (autolite)

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  • Holley sniper install (autolite)

    Going in… making punch list and the main question is if there is an adapter made to install the Holley temp sender into the series block?
    -seems like we had people asking what sort of parts people might like made. Holley sensor is 3/8 NPT male and the Land Rover adapter to block for the temp sender is 5/8 UNF? So a 3/8 NPT female to 5/8 UNF male.
    rest of list:
    - fuel pump (intank, Delphi for early 2000 GM trucks)
    - 180 thermostat
    - throttle linkage (looking at extending arm ala zenith style by laying piece of flat stock onto sniper throttle arm)
    - O2 sensor bung

    Erik

    1970ish exMOD 109

  • #2
    I made the temp sender adaptor by welding a hex nut to the factory adaptor and running a 3/8” pipe tap into it.

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    • #3
      Click image for larger version

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ID:	209879 Mark, been using your thread on the sniper install as a guide. Seemed pretty anticlimactic. Picked up some large hex nuts, ordered a 3/8 NPT tap and drill bit kit.
      just got my winter thermostat..
      Erik

      1970ish exMOD 109

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      • #4
        You are going to need to drill a bypass hole in that thermostat.

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        • #5
          The main parts of a Sniper install are; exhaust bung for o2 sensor, temp sender adaptor, electric fuel pump using fuel injection hose on the pressure side, modify the throttle arm on the truck linkage to work the throttle body. Remember to hook the black and red wires direct to the battery and have a serious ground to the block.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by series guy View Post
            … have a serious ground to the block.
            Could you elaborate on ‘serious’ ground to the block? I have battery cable (probably 4awg) from the battery to the frame and also, in the factory ground location, near the starter to the frame.
            Thoughts on throttle body install, like yours, direct to the phenolic block vs using a zenith carb adapter? mocking it up like a zenith looks to work. The wiring comes out towards the front, which may be more of a detractor in the appearance category.
            Erik

            1970ish exMOD 109

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            • #7
              I have a 4ga. negative cable run from the battery direct to the engine block. The starter is the largest draw and warrants the best connection. I also run braided ground straps from the starter bolt to the chassis and the bulkhead. I bolted the Sniper to the intake with the phenolic block. I drilled a hole at a steep angle through the phenolic block for the vacuum port. I think I also hat to file off the alignment sleeve that would have protruded into the Solex carb throat.
              Last edited by series guy; 01-23-2023, 01:41 AM.

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              • #8
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ID:	209921 O ne of the biggest modifications needed for the install is the throttle linkage. with the throttle body installed on the manifold studs (no 90 degree adaptor) the throttle arm pushes upward for open just like the old Solex. Unlike the old Solex that had an arm that made a large upward arc the Sniper arm is short and low. This makes building linkage a pain, especially if you have already modified your linkage to pull down for a Weber. One thing that I think would help greatly is to lower the pivot shaft that the throttle arm mounts on. I did not do this on my install but have since modified the bracket that bolts to the steering box mounting bolts and holds the pivot shaft by removing an inch out of it just above the top bolt hole and welding it back together. I think this would help the geometry of the throttle lever greatly but mine is currently working well so I haven't revisited it.I'll attach a few photos that might help.

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                • #9

                  Mark,
                  do you recall where in the manual it talks about drilling a vacuum port like you’ve done? Swear I have seen it but not finding it in either the quick start guide or full length manual.

                  The first decision for folks, decide which linkage you want to go with (zenith or Weber). For some, that decision may have been made already by what type of carb you have. I am running zenith style and zenith adapter because a) that’s what I had, b) like the vacuum port location in the adapter for power brakes, and c) didn’t realize the difference until got this far along.
                  realized something was amiss when the TPS heat shield wasn’t shielding the TPS.

                  ​​
                  Can confirm extending the throttle arm from a piece made of 1/8 thick metal and drilled the ends fits existing throttle linkage easily .

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                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by Xplitive; 01-24-2023, 08:56 PM.
                  Erik

                  1970ish exMOD 109

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                  • #10
                    I don’t recall anything in the manual about drilling the vacuum hole. Remember this was not designed with the Land Rover in mind.

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