2A Clutch Setup Question

[Poppy1969]

Hello G&R Members. I am working to get my clutch setup for my 1969 2A 88”. I have the Haynes manual. Have seen the green bible instructions (similar to Haynes) and I have read several forum posts on the subject. Still massive confusion. Here are some of my questions and the approach I will use. First the pedal setup. Haynes manual describes two heights from floor, 6.25” and 5.5”. The manual is completely unclear on which I suppose goes with my 2A. Anyhow if I setup the 6.25” then the furthest out adjust nut on the master cylinder pushrod is hanging on for dear life. So I will be using 5.5” I guess. With this adjustment this should take care of the pedal setup. I will leave some play via the stop bolt and locknut on the clutch tower housing. For my clutch I did go with the 9.5” version. I worked closely with Trevor at RovahFarm to make sure I have all the right cover and disk. Anyhow my plan is to adjust the slave cylinder pushrod while checking the throw out bearing clearance to the cover clearance . If anyone has a particular clearance I should use that would be one of my questions. Otherwise I will leave about 1/16” play. Basically when there is no hydraulic pressure this is where my clutch will disengage too. I would consider this a mechanical hard stop. My assumption is that if I do all these clearances since I can inspect (via inspection opening)the clutch cover and throw out bearing I should see the clutch engage/disengage once I bleed the hydraulics. Next question would be how much extension should I see on the throw out bearing? I assume not too much but I will be limited by my pedal travel. Anyhow any advice is appreciated as always. Cheers. Tom

[loose gravel]

Tom, To really advise correctly we need to know what type of clutch/transmission you have. Fully syncro? Where is the slave cyl, vertical on the side( under the distributor) or horizontal on the exhaust side of the engine. Also the pedal height is set without a floor mat.

[Poppy1969]

1969 2A 88” Truck. Not full synchro. Only 3/4 gear. I know this from disassembly for inspection. I have the vertical slave cylinder located distributor side of the engine. Pedal height was set without floor mat. Ha, ha floor mats…. Good one. My throw out bearing actuator assembly resembles a crude Rube Goldberg contraption: ). How many rods, pivots, forks, etc… do you possibly need to operate a clutch? Well let me know if you need anything else. Cheers. Tom

[loose gravel]

Looking at my S2 manual, pedal height is 6" from the toe board(not vertical to floor) to the back edge of the pedal. Then the stop bolt is set on the pedal box. The pedal height is not set with the push rod. Once the pedal height is set then adjust the play of the push rod.
So undo the pushrod nuts and let the pedal fall loose, measure and set the lock-stop bolt. Then set the play, 1/16" at the pushrod, 5/16" at the pedal pad.

See where that gets you.

[Poppy1969]

Looking at my S2 manual, pedal height is 6" from the toe board(not vertical to floor) to the back edge of the pedal. Then the stop bolt is set on the pedal box. The pedal height is not set with the push rod. Once the pedal height is set then adjust the play of the push rod.
So undo the pushrod nuts and let the pedal fall loose, measure and set the lock-stop bolt. Then set the play, 1/16" at the pushrod, 5/16" at the pedal pad.

See where that gets you.

i see that I should adjust the pedal height via the stop bolt. Will take another look later today. So once the pedal height is sorted any opinion on the slave cylinder side of things? I received my correct slave cylinder flexible line today so I would like to bleed the system and complete this part of my project. Thanks. Tom

[Poppy1969]

Ok so I did the pedal height setup as suggested. Turns out the 6” to the toe panel seem the same adjustment 5.5” to the floor. At least in my truck. Adjusted the play to 1/16” at the pushrod and about ~5/16” a the pedal. Will move on to the slave cylinder end of things tomorrow. As always any suggestions welcome. Cheers. Tom

[Poppy1969]

Ok. Last night I almost had a panic attack while setting up the clutch slave cylinder. For a moment I thought I had gotten the clutch pivot setup wrong for the fork that actually pushes the throwout bearing. There is a very special process to get this right. It looked like my pushrod would not be able to reach the lever it attaches too? Well my problem is that my slave cylinder push rod is short by about 3/4 inch. From inspection seems the rod had part of it sheared off at the threaded end. After some research I have the dimension now and another post I found someone modified a spare handbrake rod. Good thing I have several spares of these. I will make a proper length pushrod and from there I think my clutch setup is looking pretty good. Cheers. Tom