Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

4X4 selector problems / questions!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by SafeAirOne
    Indeed…there’s your problem. The protective dust cap is removed in your video and you can see in the vid that the 4WD selector shaft is rusted up. It needs to be able to slide into and out of the case:



    So, are all 3 shafts meant to move? I thought the rusty one is meant to be stationary

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by Paul D View Post
      A photo of the transfer case shafts with the cover removed. It took a lot of cleaning, PB Blaster and 'Percussive Therapy' to get these free.

      Click image for larger version

Name:	Trans.jpg
Views:	172
Size:	86.9 KB
ID:	199186
      The shaft at top left is rusty and tuck on mine - Should it be able to move?

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by nicsrover View Post

        The shaft at top left is rusty and tuck on mine - Should it be able to move?
        Hmm…you might be right…all I’ve got to go by is my faded memory and the crappy video I made a decade ago.

        I’ll retract my “aha” statement and defer to the wisdom of others till I can get home and look at mine.
        --Mark

        1973 SIII 109 regular w/2.5NA Diesel

        Comment


        • #19
          Ahh yes…it’s the middle shaft with the hole that’s plinking forward when the pin is removed, of course. Is yours springing forward? Doesn’t seem to move in the video.
          --Mark

          1973 SIII 109 regular w/2.5NA Diesel

          Comment


          • #20
            I think in your video you have to start with the yellow knob in the Normal up position and the red lever forward. That will be Hi 2x . Let the yellow knob drop, pin out of the hole and you have Hi 4x, that is when with the main in 1 the prop should not turn by hand. pull up lightly on the yellow knob to simulate spring pressure and pull the red lever back and the yellow knob should be released. Once the red lever is fully to the rear that is lo 4x. Clear as mud? I hope I got that right.
            gene
            1960 109 w/ 200TDI
            rebuild blog; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/

            You don't see faith healers working in hospitals for the same reason you don't see psychics winning the lottery.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by SafeAirOne View Post

              Hmm…you might be right…all I’ve got to go by is my faded memory and the crappy video I made a decade ago.

              I’ll retract my “aha” statement and defer to the wisdom of others till I can get home and look at mine.

              Is it this video. It shows that ALL the shafts move. As you say my middle/smaller shaft with the hole is only moving with the other one, not on its own. The rusty shaft is stuck solid and gonna take a bit of agro to shift (if it does indeed need to move).
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jz9uvVRFywk&t=16s

              Comment


              • #22
                Click image for larger version  Name:	image_27683.jpg Views:	0 Size:	90.9 KB ID:	199239
                Originally posted by SafeAirOne View Post
                Ahh yes…it’s the middle shaft with the hole that’s plinking forward when the pin is removed, of course. Is yours springing forward? Doesn’t seem to move in the video.
                These two shafts seem to be stuck together - I cannot get the pin shaft to move independently or protrude enough to see the hole as shown (if it is meant to).
                Attached Files
                Last edited by nicsrover; 01-14-2022, 08:15 AM.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by nicsrover View Post


                  Is it this video. It shows that ALL the shafts move. As you say my middle/smaller shaft with the hole is only moving with the other one, not on its own. The rusty shaft is stuck solid and gonna take a bit of agro to shift (if it does indeed need to move).
                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jz9uvVRFywk&t=16s

                  Hmm…I know something has to move fore and aft over on that far shaft or else the center, crossdrilled shaft can’t move independently of the red lever. Problem is, I can’t remember what.

                  The pivot mechanism works by changing its pivot point between all 3 shafts.

                  Ill have to take a peek when I get home from work, unless someone else can confirm weather the shaft opposite the high/low shaft (the rusty one in your video) is meant to slide in and out of the case.
                  --Mark

                  1973 SIII 109 regular w/2.5NA Diesel

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by loose gravel View Post
                    I think in your video you have to start with the yellow knob in the Normal up position and the red lever forward. That will be Hi 2x . Let the yellow knob drop, pin out of the hole and you have Hi 4x, that is when with the main in 1 the prop should not turn by hand. pull up lightly on the yellow knob to simulate spring pressure and pull the red lever back and the yellow knob should be released. Once the red lever is fully to the rear that is lo 4x. Clear as mud? I hope I got that right.
                    Didnt even realize that the pin wasn’t in the hole at the start of the video, Gene—good point!

                    Get the pin in the hole, make sure it stays there and pull the red lever all the way to the rear and check for propshaft rotation in 4 low.

                    without the pin engaged in the shaft, the pivot point for the swivel mechanism
                    is all wrong.
                    --Mark

                    1973 SIII 109 regular w/2.5NA Diesel

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by SafeAirOne View Post

                      Didnt even realize that the pin wasn’t in the hole at the start of the video, Gene—good point!

                      Get the pin in the hole, make sure it stays there and pull the red lever all the way to the rear and check for propshaft rotation in 4 low.

                      without the pin engaged in the shaft, the pivot point for the swivel mechanism
                      is all wrong.
                      Problem is that I can’t pull the red lever back when the pin is engaged- it seems to be stuck.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by nicsrover View Post

                        Problem is that I can’t pull the red lever back when the pin is engaged- it seems to be stuck.
                        In that case, I’m fairly confident that the rusty shaft should slide in and out of the case, especially after seeing the diagram of the innards attached to my next post (can’t seem to include it in this post, for whatever reason).

                        When the pin is withdrawn from the center shaft, it’s the forward movement of the rusty shaft that reduces the bias in the [yellow] spring in front of the [blue] slider for the 4WD fork causing it to move forward, engaging the [green] 4WD dog, which marries the [orange] rear output to the [purple] front output shaft.

                        If the rusty shaft can’t move, the red lever will not be able to move with the pin engaged in the middle shaft, and the pin will only drop into the hole in the center shaft with the red lever in the forward position.

                        Last edited by SafeAirOne; 01-14-2022, 12:29 PM.
                        --Mark

                        1973 SIII 109 regular w/2.5NA Diesel

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Guess I’ve posted too many photos in-line?…here’s the diagram that goes with my previous post.
                          --Mark

                          1973 SIII 109 regular w/2.5NA Diesel

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            The pin dropping into the hole(yellow knob up) should happen once the red lever has been moved rearward into Lo and stay there until 4Hi is re-engaged. From the video, the pin drops when the lever is in Neutral and the lever then will not go into Lo? Correct?

                            I have been looking at the manual, I'm not sure that the rusted rod moves, the selector rides on it inside the case and has springs on both sides to assist selector movement.

                            Still looking.

                            The manual doesn't give much info on whether or not that shaft moves. It does give alignment instructions for all 3 shafts of fitting them assembled into the front of the transfercase backwards then keeping that alignment remove them and fit them to the front output case and engage the fork in the 4x4dog. Obviously I have never worked on this part.
                            Last edited by loose gravel; 01-14-2022, 12:55 PM.
                            gene
                            1960 109 w/ 200TDI
                            rebuild blog; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/

                            You don't see faith healers working in hospitals for the same reason you don't see psychics winning the lottery.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Mark, what moves the 4x selector shaft? That little double slotted connector? The manual is poor in describing how that fits.
                              gene
                              1960 109 w/ 200TDI
                              rebuild blog; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/

                              You don't see faith healers working in hospitals for the same reason you don't see psychics winning the lottery.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Ollies truck View Post
                                I had a problem with the yellow knob not staying down. I unscrewed the knob a few turns and it worked as it should. Check the hieght of the yellow knob on the shaft. If it is too short the pin won't withdraw all the way to allow the shaft to spring forward.
                                In the up position it is supposed to be 2-5/16" from the bottom of the locknut under the knob to the top of the ferrule in the tunnel plate.
                                gene
                                1960 109 w/ 200TDI
                                rebuild blog; http://poppageno.blogspot.com/

                                You don't see faith healers working in hospitals for the same reason you don't see psychics winning the lottery.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X