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  • nicsrover
    replied
    That’s a great video and very helpful. Basically my 4 wheel drive selector shaft is rusty and stuck in the aluminium housing. I am planning to get back to it an hopefully with penetrating oil and heat I can get it moving!

    Leave a comment:


  • DouginMaine
    replied
    Terrific video showing the guts of the transmission including the 4WD selector shaft in question. 6:45 and 9:45 are the most relevant to this topic. https://youtu.be/CU74CJOBGWk?t=391
    Last edited by DouginMaine; 03-16-2022, 09:08 PM. Reason: Wanted to give specific times for this topic.

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  • nicsrover
    replied
    A couple of vids showing inside transfer case. Not sure what I am looking at but maybe interesting to someone more knowledgeable!
    I think I will button it all back up as I don't need 4wd yet - and get back to it in the future. I think I will end up removing the transfer case later as I think something is not functioning properly inside. Thanks for all the help.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPYr1pISeCA
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRtmMZs0d80

    Leave a comment:


  • loose gravel
    replied
    Conrad, Thanks for that, great find! I would love to see the full graphic video he uses.

    Also gives evidence that the "Use it or Lose it" theory is correct.

    Leave a comment:


  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Originally posted by conrad1468 View Post

    Foreman and Wilms video helped me to understand what magic is going on inside the box!!

    https://youtu.be/CU74CJOBGWk
    Whew! Awesome video—a great resource! The graphic at the 5:35 mark validates my theory that that rusted up shaft on Nick’s transfer case is the cause of his woes.
    Last edited by SafeAirOne; 01-15-2022, 12:05 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • conrad1468
    replied
    Here's another example to help explain what's going on in the transfer case.

    Foreman and Wilms video helped me to understand what magic is going on inside the box!!

    https://youtu.be/CU74CJOBGWk

    Leave a comment:


  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Originally posted by loose gravel View Post
    Mark, what moves the 4x selector shaft? That little double slotted connector? The manual is poor in describing how that fits.
    Yes. See pic. Viewed from bottom looking up and aft. Yellow shaft controlled by yellow knob. Red shaft controlled by red lever. Green swivel is the double slotted connector you refer to. The end slots of the swivel mesh with posts on the red and the blue shafts. The center is mounted to the yellow shaft by another post about which it spins.



    PIC 1--2WD. Pin engaged in yellow shaft. Red shaft fully forward (high gear ratio) Purple 4WD dog fork slides freely along blue shaft, but is held in disengaged (2WD) position by equilibrium of spring force on either side of slider. Note angle of green swivel mechanism:















    PIC 2--4WD HIGH. Pin is disengaged from yellow shaft. Spring around fixed red shaft forces yellow shaft forward. Green swivel pivots about the post on the fixed red shaft as the yellow shaft travels forward. This causes the other end of the slotted swivel to push the blue shaft forward. Forward movement of blue shaft upsets equilibrium of springs on either side of the purple 4WD slider, decreasing the front spring bias, sending the slider/fork forward, engaging the 4WD dog, which marries the rear drive output shaft to the front drive output shaft. Note angle of green swivel mechanism:











    PIC 3--4WD LOW. Red shaft moved to full aft (low gear ratio) position with the red lever. Green swivel pivots about the post on the stationary blue shaft. Yellow shaft moves aft with the red shaft until the hole in the yellow shaft aligns with the spring loaded pin of the yellow knob, allowing the pin to drop into the hole in the shaft, thereby fixing the position of the yellow shaft once again. Note the angle of the green swivel mechanism:



    When the red lever is pushed all the way forward from here, the green swivel pivots about its center on its post on the fixed yellow shaft, sending the blue shaft rearward and changing the bias of the springs on either side of the purple 4WD fork slider so that it moves to the rear, thereby disengaging the 4WD dog and divorcing the front drive output shaft from the rear drive output shaft.

    This is my understanding of how this ingenious system works. Might be wrong about it though, but that’s how I believe it works.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by SafeAirOne; 01-14-2022, 11:47 PM.

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  • loose gravel
    replied
    Originally posted by Ollies truck View Post
    I had a problem with the yellow knob not staying down. I unscrewed the knob a few turns and it worked as it should. Check the hieght of the yellow knob on the shaft. If it is too short the pin won't withdraw all the way to allow the shaft to spring forward.
    In the up position it is supposed to be 2-5/16" from the bottom of the locknut under the knob to the top of the ferrule in the tunnel plate.

    Leave a comment:


  • loose gravel
    replied
    Mark, what moves the 4x selector shaft? That little double slotted connector? The manual is poor in describing how that fits.

    Leave a comment:


  • loose gravel
    replied
    The pin dropping into the hole(yellow knob up) should happen once the red lever has been moved rearward into Lo and stay there until 4Hi is re-engaged. From the video, the pin drops when the lever is in Neutral and the lever then will not go into Lo? Correct?

    I have been looking at the manual, I'm not sure that the rusted rod moves, the selector rides on it inside the case and has springs on both sides to assist selector movement.

    Still looking.

    The manual doesn't give much info on whether or not that shaft moves. It does give alignment instructions for all 3 shafts of fitting them assembled into the front of the transfercase backwards then keeping that alignment remove them and fit them to the front output case and engage the fork in the 4x4dog. Obviously I have never worked on this part.
    Last edited by loose gravel; 01-14-2022, 12:55 PM.

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  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Guess I’ve posted too many photos in-line?…here’s the diagram that goes with my previous post.

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  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Originally posted by nicsrover View Post

    Problem is that I can’t pull the red lever back when the pin is engaged- it seems to be stuck.
    In that case, I’m fairly confident that the rusty shaft should slide in and out of the case, especially after seeing the diagram of the innards attached to my next post (can’t seem to include it in this post, for whatever reason).

    When the pin is withdrawn from the center shaft, it’s the forward movement of the rusty shaft that reduces the bias in the [yellow] spring in front of the [blue] slider for the 4WD fork causing it to move forward, engaging the [green] 4WD dog, which marries the [orange] rear output to the [purple] front output shaft.

    If the rusty shaft can’t move, the red lever will not be able to move with the pin engaged in the middle shaft, and the pin will only drop into the hole in the center shaft with the red lever in the forward position.

    Last edited by SafeAirOne; 01-14-2022, 12:29 PM.

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  • nicsrover
    replied
    Originally posted by SafeAirOne View Post

    Didnt even realize that the pin wasn’t in the hole at the start of the video, Gene—good point!

    Get the pin in the hole, make sure it stays there and pull the red lever all the way to the rear and check for propshaft rotation in 4 low.

    without the pin engaged in the shaft, the pivot point for the swivel mechanism
    is all wrong.
    Problem is that I can’t pull the red lever back when the pin is engaged- it seems to be stuck.

    Leave a comment:


  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Originally posted by loose gravel View Post
    I think in your video you have to start with the yellow knob in the Normal up position and the red lever forward. That will be Hi 2x . Let the yellow knob drop, pin out of the hole and you have Hi 4x, that is when with the main in 1 the prop should not turn by hand. pull up lightly on the yellow knob to simulate spring pressure and pull the red lever back and the yellow knob should be released. Once the red lever is fully to the rear that is lo 4x. Clear as mud? I hope I got that right.
    Didnt even realize that the pin wasn’t in the hole at the start of the video, Gene—good point!

    Get the pin in the hole, make sure it stays there and pull the red lever all the way to the rear and check for propshaft rotation in 4 low.

    without the pin engaged in the shaft, the pivot point for the swivel mechanism
    is all wrong.

    Leave a comment:


  • SafeAirOne
    replied
    Originally posted by nicsrover View Post


    Is it this video. It shows that ALL the shafts move. As you say my middle/smaller shaft with the hole is only moving with the other one, not on its own. The rusty shaft is stuck solid and gonna take a bit of agro to shift (if it does indeed need to move).
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jz9uvVRFywk&t=16s

    Hmm…I know something has to move fore and aft over on that far shaft or else the center, crossdrilled shaft can’t move independently of the red lever. Problem is, I can’t remember what.

    The pivot mechanism works by changing its pivot point between all 3 shafts.

    Ill have to take a peek when I get home from work, unless someone else can confirm weather the shaft opposite the high/low shaft (the rusty one in your video) is meant to slide in and out of the case.

    Leave a comment:

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