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  • Sniper EFI question

    Hello all,

    After reading the different threads about the Sniper EFI installation, I decided that the way to go. I have been studying over the different threads, identifying the different hurdles and how they are tackled by different owners. I have a Holley 1100 Autolite sniper kit on the way, I'm just trying to get all the ducks in a row before I plunge into it.

    One question I'm trying figure out first is orientation. Leaving out the linkage question, what orientation is optimal for the throttle body? Is a heat shield still necessary if it is mounted with "face" forward? (studs lined up fore-aft) Or is it better with the studs perpendicular?

    The manifold I intend to use requires an adapter so I can position it either way, jus wondering what pro/cons are for either direction. I can adapt the linkage for both.

    Rusty
    1965 Series IIa

  • #2
    I figured the less joints to leak the better so mine is bolted direct to the manifold. Also keeping the throttle body lower helps with bonnet clearance to the intake elbow. I have seen more than one bonnet with a hole rubbed through it from the intake elbow.

    Comment


    • #3
      Get a throttle cable…
      I have the 2GC version because I used a defender 2.5 L manifold and I converted before the 1bbl came out.. (also was concerned about height and this is a shorter unit.

      these kits rely heavily on the TPS and the butterfly to be closed (zero value on the cpu). The linkage binds and the springs don’t always snap it shut on deceleration and shifting making it run rough or stumble (hunt for an idle)

      to gain all the performance and reliability from this, I really feel you need to go with a cable actuated throttle.. (electronic ignition also)

      my 2 cents

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      • #4
        Stock linkage here, prefer the vacuum port on the factory spacer for brakes. Using an elbow adapter from series guy, appear to be near stock height.Think my earlier post has the zenith and autolite side by side. They are near identical dimensionally. Literally adjusted the linkage 1 turn for the efi. Not sure if the TPS heat shield is needed in this orientation, can’t hurt. Believe the shields would work better double layer (air gap) so plan is to fab a double layer heat shield that will also better support the wiring to the temp sender.
        looking at doing a 90 degree fitting on the fuel inlet side.
        also, I ’m RHD
        Last edited by Xplitive; 05-26-2023, 08:24 PM.
        Erik

        1970ish exMOD 109

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        • #5
          Also, if you plug the intake manifold brake vacuum port, that appears to be whitworth.
          Tips
          1) don’t tack weld an extension arm on to the unit.
          2) Holley support and warranty is great if above does occur.

          last, whatever configuration you’re going with, think routing of fuel line, wiring, etc.
          Last edited by Xplitive; 05-26-2023, 08:38 PM.
          Erik

          1970ish exMOD 109

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          • #6
            Click image for larger version

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ID:	213092 Like I said, I'm not concerned about the linkage, just the orientation benefits. I plan on using a Pierce manifold, so I will make an adapter plate that bolts to the top. I can choose to mount the efi in either direction. I don't have a vacuum power booster to feed. I plan to use a thermostat housing from a 200tdi as it already has a 3/8 npt tap for the temp sender.

            Rusty
            Last edited by Rusty Goose; 05-26-2023, 08:53 PM.
            1965 Series IIa

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            • #7
              I would not use the Pierce manifold. The intake heating of the stock manifold is very beneficial to drivability

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              • #8
                I've heard that about the Pierce manifold on a thread or two, but was in winter with quite cold temps. Not really an issue for me in temp ranges from 40-112 F in a year.
                1965 Series IIa

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Rusty Goose View Post
                  I've heard that about the Pierce manifold on a thread or two, but was in winter with quite cold temps. Not really an issue for me in temp ranges from 40-112 F in a year.
                  Its not just to do with freezing though. It provides a more stable environment for the intake fuel system. It's to prevent (under certain circumstances) petrol condensing on the internal wall of the manifold thus messing up the air/petrol ratio.

                  Langdon explains it well here:
                  http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/tec...take-manifold/

                  Its not just a cold weather and carburetor icing thing.
                  -Matt
                  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  A designer knows he has achieved perfection not when there is nothing left to add, but when there is nothing left to take away. ---Antoine de Saint-Exupery

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                  • #10
                    What he said. I tried one on two different trucks. Finally gave up. The o2 sensor in the Sniper system might help but I would bet that it won’t have the range and will cause some trouble. I just did 60+ miles in my truck running around yesterday afternoon without a hitch or bobble. I am very happy with the way my truck runs. One of my errands was picking up a case of Joe Gibbs 20W50 racing oil for the trip north. I figured 20W50 might be better for the hot weather. When changing the oil I noticed that I’ve driven 3k miles since the last change which coincides with my Sniper install so I guess I have around 3k miles on the Sniper conversion.
                    Last edited by series guy; 05-28-2023, 06:55 AM.

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