Bearing cross reference help

[RustCollector]

I need/want to replace a transmission bearing with a good one. Specifically, LR part number 55714, which is the input/pinion shaft bearing. Our favorite suppliers are apparently out of OEM stock.

Terri-Anns' site (expeditionlandrover.info) shows alternate part number of:

Transmission const. mesh pinion

23/LJ 1 1/2

There is no reference to what LR part it is replacing, nor what manufacturer makes this part. BUT, the description could be right for what I want.

Anyone out there have a bearing number for, let's say, a Timken bearing to replace my old 55714? I have a Timken bearing cross reference chart, but Land Rover is not shown on it. Do I need to pull the bearing and check for markings to reference?

FYI, I did buy a Britpart bearing, and it was a failure right out of the box. Notchy, loose, unsuitable for installation. If I can't find a good unused bearing, I'll have to ask my original one to go back to work for another shift.

Thanks, all.

[RustCollector]

Googling 23/LJ 1 1/2 gets me this linked bearing:

https://www.motionindustries.com/products/sku/00127918

I can't measure my bearing just now. Does this even look close?

Thanks,

[50 wulf]

RN lists this in stock in both genuine and proline.

Rovers North Search for 55714

[RustCollector]

Hey, look at that! They are back in stock. I swear that thing was out of stock last week.

It's also possible that I'm going crazy.

Either way, thank you Wulf.

[50 wulf]

Glad to help.

I recall on the rebuild of my NADA's box, I had ordered all new bearings (blue boxes) and all of the new bearings had more slop than the originals!!! So I built it all back with the originals and it was absolutely fine.

On the 2nd box in my 88, I took it apart and inspected the bearings prior to ordering any, and the only one that needed replacement was the front mainshaft caged bearing.

[RustCollector]

I had assumed that new bearings would be better than original (or whatever was actually in the gearbox). After seeing the blue box input shaft bearing be that bad with zero miles on it was sad. I'm going to get the OEM green box one. If you didn't mention that RN has one, I would have put the original back in.

The other bearings I was able to source, mostly blue box, appear to be ok, and some seem better than what was in there before.

Cheers,

[RustCollector]

My new OEM input shaft bearing arrived earlier this week. If I find time today, I'm going to swap it out for the original one. I'm interested in seeing how much "wiggle" exists now, and how much there is with the new bearing. I know some wiggle is expected, but I'm going to get a rough measurement of each bearing. Yes, this is how exciting my life is when I'm avoiding doing my taxes.

[Ash]

You seem to have it under control, so I didnt bother browsing the site, but Ottawa Valley is always worth a look.... https://ovlr.ca/2021/12/17/ovlr-alternate-parts-list/

[RustCollector]

Ash, that's an awesome resource! I'm sure I saw that site years ago, but forgot about it till you reminded me. Thanks.

[RustCollector]

I measured the "wiggle" in the primary pinion shaft, without the cover piece in place. Measuring at the end of the shaft, referencing off of the big end of the bell housing, the old bearing was about .040" and the new bearing was .032"-ish. So, the new bearing is an improvement in that regard anyway. I'm not sure that measurement even matters. New bearing is a LR part in the green box. I feel good having that part replaced with what I hope is the best available part.

In other news, I've completed the rebuild up to the point of installing the t-case intermediate shaft and gears. With new thrust washers, I get .032" end play when .002" to .008" is specified. I'm asking around our vendors to see what shims are available. McMaster has a few that could work, thickness wise, but the ID is bigger than the thrust washer's. What concerns me there is the shim not fully supporting the thrust washer, and causing issues.

Related to that, I'm looking to just shim the forward thrust washer, which would center the gears on the output gears better.

I will reinstall my Fairey OD. I will take the advice I received here in other threads to not spend my money rebuilding the Fairey, and instead save up for a Roamerdrive. I did however replace the "clutch sleeve" gear (pic below), which installs in the gearbox output drive shaft inside the t-case. The old one's spline teeth are worn pretty bad. Since the failure of this part leaves me stranded, I felt better replacing it. Hard to find this thing Stateside! Dare Britannia had one.



I bought RN's special nut tool for the nut that holds the clutch sleeve on. I had to weld on an old socket so I could get a torque wrench on it. It comes with a hole drilled cross wise, and a foot long bar to slide through it. No way to get a decent amount of torque on that, or to measure it. My booger weld worked just fine for 85 foot pounds.



I'll let you know what I find out about the shim washers. I'm sure I'm not the only one with this issue. As always, let me know when I'm being unusually stupid.

Cheers,

[loose gravel]

I encourage anyone with an OD to carry a replacement to stock kit. I keep mine in a Plano box; https://planomolding.com/products/gu...3600-999146000 I see the price has gone up since I bought mine, worth keeping your parts safe though.

Here's a pic of a basic kit.



And how it fits closed.



Mine is full of stuff for it including the tools I need and spares for my FWH and misc studs, o-rings for the back of the transfer case.



Closed up and labeled.





I keep it in the rear tool box of the 109 along with a box for 3/8 socket stuff and a box of electrical repair stuff..

[RustCollector]

That's a great tool/parts kit there. Pangolin sells a complete "Fariey Failure" kit, which I will buy before a long trip. Ideally, I'd get the Roamerdrive to replace the Fairey, but it's ten times the price of the emergency fix kit. My darn kids keep eating and they insist on living indoors, so there goes my Rover play money this month!

[RustCollector]

Shim update: I learned a new thing yesterday. When measuring the play of a gear on its shaft, you need pay attention to what you are measuring. I know that sounds like what I'd tell my kids.

What I thought I was measuring was the total play of the gear from side to side. I measured just one side with the feeler and got .032". I looked for shims that were smaller than that to give me a shimmed play of .002" to .008", as the book says. I accurately measured the gap I could see, but the intermediate shaft thrust washer (which I'm trying to shim out) has a step in it, and I missed that detail. So, the shims I got from McMaster were too thick. I scratched my head for a while on this. Then I saw the step on the thrust washer and did a palm slap on my forehead.

The Green Bible says that the shims are available, and I finally found some at RovahFarm, but no thickness is stated. I'm buying them anyway and hoping that they will put me in spec. After that, it's time to button up the T-case, install the OD, and get it off the work bench.

[RustCollector]

My shims arrived from Rovah Farm. They are .005" each, so I should have bought 4 (d'oh!). I just ordered 2 more, which should bring me to a total end float of .002". If it's tighter than that, then I can leave one shim out and get an end float of .007" or .008", which is still in spec. I'm becoming a shim hoarder without meaning to.

It seems like the last five percent of this job is taking half the time of the whole project. So, things are normal.

[RustCollector]

Update: my second pair of shims arrived from Rovah Farm. I tried for an hour to get the intermediate gear in place with both new shims. Mathematically, all 4 shims give me .003" end play in the gear, which is on the tight end of spec. I could not get the gear to drop in with all 4 shims. I took it all out and cleaned surfaces, scraped the aluminum pocket where these all fit to find any high spots, cleaned all the pieces. I lightly greased the shims and thrust washers and stuck them in place. I also tried all combinations of which side the shims were, and how many in each place. Nope. I can't even get it to start.

So, I took one shim out (leaving 3 in place), which should have made it super easy to slide in, but it still took a while to find the right way to wiggle it around till it dropped in place. Now I have .007" of end play, which is just inside the big end of spec.

I can slide a .005" feeler (same size as the shims) all the way around the gap where the shim should have fit, with a bit of room to spare. No idea what's blocking it from being in there.

I'm leaving the sump off for a few days, just in case any of you have magical advice on this topic.

Feel free to tell me that .007" is fine.