TIG welding questions

[Xplitive]

Looks like birmabright is around a 5200 series alloy. Per google on 4043 vs 5356 filler rod, seems like 5356 rod alone has a lot of pros. One advantage for 4043 is ‘weldability’, which sounds like a nice looking weld afterwards. Would I notice a lot of difference between the two rods? Would the repair hold up better between the 2 rods?
For a panel, butt or slight overlap joint, is it better to have the tungsten tip finer (needle, 15 deg) or broader (arrow head, 30 deg), or even greater?
last, is there an alloy, that is more commonly found, that can be used to repair?
thanks in advance for any experience.

[Rusty Goose]

Over my head...

[loose gravel]

Take an old piece of birma and use it as a filler rod..

[Xplitive]

Take an old piece of birma and use it as a filler rod..

Don’t mind trying that but prefer to source stuff at a store instead of accumulating a junkyard!

[MassMike]

My advise is don't overthink it. This was welded with a ER4043 and I felt it worked well. I made sure everything was a clean as possible with a stainless wire brush, acetone wipe down, and used a sheet of copper as a backer/heat sink. By no means is it a pretty weld, but it's solid. This was butt welded with a small gap.

[MilesBFree]

i haven't done much or really any welding in the last 30 years, but iirc you don't want to use a steel brush on aluminum since if small particles break off they can rust. Even SS would cause galvanic corrosion.

[Xplitive]

Thanks. Have 2 lbs of 4043 so it’s a go.

[Xplitive]

Still messing around with machine settings and thinner material BUT…
for Birmabright, the alloy series has a high magnesium content and to use 5356 rod.
Source: Hobart Bros and Fabricator both have a Guide to Aluminum welding, both easy to read.

[BKP17]

Erik
sent you a PM